What is plan B?

Flypaper thoughts:

• Storm today, road washed out.
• Sewing room under 6 inches of water.
• Husband got home from work just in time to lift machines and fabric to safety.
• Tomorrow is my birthday.
• My mom sent me a Home Depot gift card.
• Good thing.
• Each son has asked for a sweater for Christmas.
• I have a feeling they mean Christmas this year.
• Last time we drove from Nova Scotia to Tennessee I knit two dish cloths and one sock.
• They have to be kidding.
• However my sewing room is under water.
• I have to stop talking to the TV.
• What's with those Viagra type commercials where the couple are suddenly transported to two bathtubs where they start to hold hands?
• I have three children and I have never held hands in twin bathtubs.
• And I am not going to start.
• The minister of finance is taking me out for lunch tomorrow.
• I knew him before this happened.
• Knowing him it's going to be separate checks.
• My husband had to take a sledge hammer to the concrete floor in my sewing room to make a place for the water to drain out.
• So far it has just filled up with water again.
• Now the floor has to be fixed.
• The dogs want to know why they haven't been taken out for a walk.
• Dog pee is a highly effective solvent on floor tile glue.
• Just so you know.
• I have just eaten two chocolate cherry blossoms.
• Thank god.
• I mean that.
• So far I have cast on one sweater.
• That's it for today.
• Try again tomorrow.

Technical notes Butterick 5533

Here are my thoughts on this pattern.


I like the jacket. 


I am glad I made it and will wear it a lot. It's corduroy as the pattern suggested, despite the bulk of the many top-stitched pleats at the back, it isn't too puffy as I had feared.


Of course the back detail will date a bit. It is sort of the last vestiges of the empire look but because it's in the back I am hoping not quite as distinctly that. For the couple of years I will probably wear this to death I think it is more interesting than a simple camp coat would be.


It felt odd to be working in corduroy. I can't remember the last time I sewed this fabric. To me it is sort of a fabric from my past. When we were kids my grandmother and mother used to make us spring and fall jackets out of this stuff, lined with flannel to go with the corduroy pants we wore for our entire childhoods. It's tough stuff and actually so easy to sew like all cottons.


I have written before, and won't rave again, on the dumbness of a pattern that is obviously a warm type jacket without included pattern pieces for lining. I made my own in the easiest way possible out of Kasha lining - you know satin stuff on one side and flannel on the other. It is Nova Scotia after all and the leaves are turning.


Here is my cheater lining technique:


1. Cut out one of everything but the collar in lining. I bagged and lined the pockets.


2. Because of the large back piece with all those pleats I didn't want to trap and pull that with a straight lining so I trimmed about 12" from the centre back and made what is still a large box pleat in the lining piece that attaches to the yoke. Here is a bright picture:

3. I turned under the long unnotched edge of the facing and top-stitched that to the front lining pieces to save myself the thinking time of calculating the seam allowances to connect the two. This added two layers of bulk to the facing area but I don't mind that - just beefed up the interfacing and actually gives the front nice support.


4. I have bagged linings a million times but don't do that much anymore. I find the lining shifts a bit and I have to sometimes pull the sleeves down or worse the sleeve linings seem too short and hike up the sleeves a bit. So here I stitched the sleeve lining by machine to the armhole seam allowances and slip stitched the bottom of the lining to the inside of the sleeve hem so I could control the ease of the lining. I made a box pleat of the sleeve lining at the top of the sleeve cap to deal with the ease.


5. I stitched the lining/facing body unit in after having machine hemmed it. Of course the lining takes the place of the back neck facing and it is neat.


6. I then turned under and slip stitched the seam allowances of the lining body around the sleeve top. I realize most instructions that have you sew the lining in around the sleeve top have you do this in a different way - machine stitch the body to the armhole and then slipstitch in the sleeve top but I don't like doing this. You have to ease in the sleeve cap with hand stitches etc. and that requires care and thinking - so much easier to deal with the straight body raw edges.


So that's the lining, and it works.


Only other caution I would note about this pattern is that the sleeves are surprisingly narrow at the wrists.  It was OK for me because I felt this would make the jacket warmer (and again where are the lining pieces?) but you might want to check this for individual fit. Also one view of this pattern shows the shaped sleeve bottoms rolled up like a cuff and they are too short to do this. I had to do what is shown in other views and have them down to make this sleeve long enough. 


If you want a cuff, add.


Finally there is a fair bit of weight at the back with those pleats so shoulder fit is important if you want to be comfortable. If you typically do a straight or sloped shoulder adjustment make sure you do it here.


That's it. A very practical, slightly stylish, probably date stamped garment that is perfect for the casual side of my life.

Butterick 5533 quick shots

Here is this jacket:

Now on me in the yard in jeans grabbing dogs and not doing the leaves as intended:

I am not really styled here, unless you count wind and dogs, but this is a lined corduroy jacket and this is exactly how I will be wearing it.


I will write some detailed technical notes tomorrow (got a few assignments to mark before I go to bed) and there are definitely some thoughts I would like to pass on with some detail shots, for the benefit of anyone else who might want to make this.


I have one other thing I would like to share tonight.


I got a long detailed email over the weekend from the woman who was my first important boss. She is now 80 and her email was full of her activities and the long list of people she was driving, buying groceries for, supervising their healthcare, visiting, moving, packing and unpacking. It made me tired to just read it.


This woman never married and had a great career where she totally micro-managed us. She once sent me out to buy new panty hose in the middle of the day because the shade I had on were not the right match for my dress. I kid you not. 


She was also the first person we called at midnight one night when a group of us had gone out to socialize/dinner and had left an industrial prototype (one of two sent to North America for testing from the factory in Europe) in a car in the parking lot - where it was stolen - undoubtedly by a competitor - and she actually, somehow, managed to keep the bunch of us from being fired. I would have fired us.


This woman was, and is, a powerhouse.


Reading her email this weekend, and seeing how she has moved from a very useful work life to a very useful retired life, I had an insight and this is it:


It is really important how you spend the older half of your life. It is your one chance to show that you paid any attention at all in the first half, that you did more than just let it all go by. How you are when you are older is your best demonstration that you didn't just have things happen to you, you learned from it.


When you are older, and how you do it, really is your evidence of your life's work.


And doing it in a red jacket is probably a good idea too.


More on this pattern later.

On the issue of quickie

Right now I don't have enough time to sew and it is getting on my nerves.


You, of all people, know what I mean.


The sewing I have also been able to sneak in has involved a lined jacket - not a hard project - but involved and slow. It should be done tomorrow and there will be pictures up. Most definitely.


Carolyn and Debbie Cook have talked about the concept of a quick project and that has really been resonating with me. 


You know there was a time when I traced Burda lined jackets and made them. When I made those fully lined wool suits for work. And I didn't mess them up.


But somehow along the line, the line that involved a more complicated life with harder jobs and with older kids who do things like have new babies and two year olds and need help, I need to sew in tighter circles. From concept, to execution, to my back in a day or two or over a weekend. I like to have an idea on Friday and wear it to work on Monday. And then on to the next thing.


What's happened to me and my sewing?


I have a confession to make.


I often look at the blogs of other super sewers - folks making muslins of tricky jackets, under-lining with china silk, and hand basting the hell out of every thing, and I wonder if I have lost my game, if I should try harder.


But I think there is a little bit of balance here. I did my achievement sewing more in the days when I was home full-time with kids and trying to match socks and trying to find a supper all participants would eat. At that time in my life my sewing represented some kind of quality work. 


Now, when my day job requires more out of me, I want to sew to try a new pattern. To have something fresh to wear maybe, but mostly just for a few hours of having fun, fooling around.


You know I don't think that my ability to sew complicated stuff has left me as much as my life has broadened a bit. In some ways, I don't know how else to say this, I just don't feel I have anything to prove, to myself in particular.


So that damn jacket is going in the out basket tomorrow.  Then I am making a "beautiful pink dog suit" as requested for Miss Scarlett, I am going to get going on a Christmas present for one of my kids (no further details in case anyone family member reads this), and then I think I am just going to get up on my weekend mornings, go down to the sewing room and see what I feel like at that particular moment.


These days that's how I sew. 


How about you?

Flypaper thoughts

Here we go this rainy morning:

• Sometimes your life is about you, sometimes it's about other people.
• Good to be who they call.
• You can still sew in your head.
• Woke up wanting a plaid skirt, first time I have had this thought since grade seven.
• Being a good parent is doing yourself out of a job.
• Someone told me that in a Boston playground 25 years ago.
• Doubt if my son can take is dog with him when he goes off to the new job in Newfoundland.
• Will have to choose my moment to ask my husband how he feels about driving to Florida with a barking fox terrier and a Border Collie running in circles in the back seat.
• Someone has to herd the luggage.
• Maybe later.
• After I tell him I have invited my entire family to take turns joining us on vacation.
• Maybe I space this out.
• Had a meeting with Successful People yesterday but was late because I ran into students on the steps.
• Decided the only difference between being young and old is the amount you laugh.
• Consider this seriously.
• Facebook makes my head explode.
• Politicians, relatives, students, and professors all want to be my friends. 
• My worlds collide.
• Facebook is no place to push your latest book, article, campaign, or social commentary.
• See laughing above.
• All I want to read the BVM posts so I don't miss a garment or a sale.
• And see baby pictures.
• If I defriend you don't take it personally.
• Why do the pattern companies even publish jacket and coat patterns they call "unlined."
• Who would ever make an unlined wool coat and be happy with it.
• After they stood up after having sat down.
• If I didn't need to be warm I wouldn't need a jacket or coat.
• Why do they give multi-sized and multi-cup patterns but no lining pieces?
• It is a pain to draft these myself.
• Why not include the lining pattern pieces and say "If you don't want to add a lining don't use these pieces."
• I still haven't had my pattern instruction writing job offer come in yet.
• I want to get up early and go to the market downtown to buy fresh collards.
• The deal is I can have company if we ride the motorcycle.
• Seems fair.
• Where do you start with a student who thinks Wikipedia is an scholarly source and People magazine is a journal?
• I am letting my hair go grey.
• The students are helping me with this.
• I figure if I wear enough lipstick I should be OK.
• Colleague at work said her hair is a lot thicker since she stopped dyeing.
• Worth a try.
• I have to get my knit on if I am going to get even half what I want done by Christmas.
• Is it possible to knit on the back of a motorcycle.
• While raking leaves.
• While doing the dishes.
• While marking papers.
• Walking dogs.
• Plan B is to go to bed early and watch the news.
• Good thing the US election has these super long campaigns. 

Pattern thoughts

Life is settling down, more on that later in flypaper thoughts; right now I have groceries on the counter waiting to be put away. It's Canadian Thanksgiving this weekend.


So of course I am blogging about patterns.


Two bits of news.


Brenson patterns has an interesting concept called Shirt Club patterns. Basically it means all components in this line are interchangeable whenever possible. I have been meaning to investigate these patterns for a while now because that seems like a cool idea.


I will be starting soon. This month I won a pattern from Bren for leaving a comment on her blog. I am really looking forward to seeing how this pattern works and possibly exploring more. I will keep you posted.


Also on my radar is this new Jalie bra pattern.

I already make my own bras with Bra-Makers supply Classic Bra pattern and I won't be going back to store bought again. For the first time in my life I have the lift I need and am very comfortable.


However nearly every bra pattern out there has a seamed cup and there are just some garments, like knits, that won't work with. 


So this makes the new Jalie pattern intriguing to me. However as a D cup I really wondered if it would give any kind of decent support. To give insight into this good old Jalie has provided some real women shots of ladies with different cup sizes on the site. You go look and decide for yourself. 


I am definitely going to be running this bra pattern, and the Brenson shirt pattern, through the Babs Pattern Testing Laboratory in the very near future.


Jacket BTW is mostly done, just needs lining and buttonholes.


More on that later, the counter calls.

I will be back soon

It's been a busy last three days - here is what has happened in that time frame around here:

• Miss Scarlett has a new sister, Heidi, born this morning. Great delivery, perfect baby.
• I slept over to take care of Miss S. Went into her room this morning "Hi Babs, you are wearing jammies, cool."
• My middle son is now in NYC and loving it.
•  2.5 hour plane ride.
• My youngest son has had a job offer in Newfoundland. 
• 1.5 hour plane ride.
• My sister was hospitalized with a serious heart issue - turned out not to be that, more tests.
• Tech person at school moved my online midterm out of my section by mistake. They then moved the final back in instead by mistake.
• 45 students wrote a test on material I haven't taught them.
• 45 students assuring me they studied for weeks and would have got 100% on the right test and would like me to take that into account.
• My kitchen cupboards are in and I have no idea how to use the storage space I have been waiting 20 years for.
• My mom fell out of bed and really hurt herself. Still cheerful as hell as per usual though.
• I made significant progress on my corduroy jacket - ran down to the sewing room when I could for stress relief.
• Made a substantial contribution to the financial stability of Fabricmart as I felt I needed further stress relief.
• Little Heidi is perfect. Just perfect.