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I am a mother, a grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge was published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon
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Saturday, March 16, 2013

What I made since Christmas (this used to be a SWAP)


I am nearing end of term and in three weeks we go off to Florida again for two months, where we will both be working remote, golfing, and in my case sewing and knitting.

As I have said in my last post I have shifted gears and have, consistently, become a SWAP drop out because I have neither the time or focus right now to give a proper raincoat the attention it deserves. There is always later as most delusional sewers know.

I decided this morning to snag my husband and do a photo shoot since that is as good as my SWAP ambitions are going to get. 

Here are the shots he took in between making bread and building a new hall closet - our renovations continue as the background for these shots show.

So these pictures display the careful styling you have come to expect from me - tops over yoga pants and even a dress over yoga pants, which is probably not how I will wear it in real life. I have class.

Here we go:



Slippers I knit because I was trying to conserve suitcase space for my fabric buying travels. One foot turned out larger than the other but that's OK because I seem to remember I have one foot larger than the other, but usually can't remember which one.


All I got done on my raincoat so far. Covering these buckles in New York cost about the same as buying a raincoat in Halifax.


The face you give your husband when he says, "you are standing there stiff looking like a nun, do something with your arms."


The Indigo junction  Mod top, I should have done the view with the doubled collar but still love this top.


My sister called in the middle of the shoot to discuss her new wall colour, grey. I think I should use that too if we ever get as far as the wall painting part. One of many versions of the Style Arc Jane top.


StyleArc Ada T-shirt with pockets


Liberty lawn Jane top.


My sister did her wood trim in Winter White with some painting tricks she learned on Pinterest. Oh and the Jane blouse again.

   
The last shots are all of Vogue 8847 . 

This dress cost me $3.00 as it was polyester I bought from my friend Norma and the sewing guild fabric sale. 

I wanted to do a muslin sort of, of this pattern since I haven't worn this style since 1982. Turns out I really like the print but being polyester and this being Canada where it is still winter and the house are crackling with static, I can't figure out, or remember, how to keep it from sticking to me. I used to have some spray stuff from the non- green 1980s, not sure if you can get it now.

So that's it.

It's summer stuff from here on in.

Monday, March 11, 2013

Daylight saving and the end of my SWAP

Well it is no longer dark at 5:00 p.m. and in four and a half weeks we are headed to Florida.

Daylight saving has arrived before my raincoat, the last of my SWAP garments, is done. And it's not going to get done until fall now since my sewing clock has moved forward and I am on a summer dress rant.

In fact I am now obsessed with finding some dress TNTs because I have them for every other garment. 

This buying fabric in NYC thing has made me fussy about patterns.

I didn't go all the way down to the big city and walk for four hours in the wrong direction and then turn around and walk the way back (those numbered streets are useful if you have the common sense to look at them) and wear only two black outfits for four days to conserve suitcase space for my fabric and leave even my slippers at home and actually take knitted slippers like my Grandmother used to knit for the "mentally handicapped" because they took up less packing room, just to come home and cut it all up with some pattern I hoped would work but hadn't tested.

Because if you are this behind in your marking and your dishes and dog-walking, you don't make muslins, and probably won't even when you are retired.

So brace yourselves for some dress experiments.

I have two other heavy thoughts to leave you with today.

First.

If you eat big meals and are supposed to not lie down right away for your middle-aged reflux, and if you want to sit up in bed for a very long time for medical reasons then I suggest, if you haven't already done this, that you go to LiveStream TV and addict yourself to Downton Abbey which should take care of any impulses to get a good and early night's sleep.

Of course if you get the current season on TV already then all I can say is don't tell me what happens.

Because if you do, and I find the perfect TNT dress pattern, well I won't be telling you the pattern number.

Second. 

If you are trying, still, to learn to crochet and are making dishcloths with wobbly sides I encourage you to keep at it, I mean it took my grandmother 9000 pairs to perfect her slippers, but I would not suggest you multi-task while doing so.

As in try to crochet on the exercise bike owing to the fact that it might seem like a good idea to let the yarn bob quietly on the floor as you go.

I would point out that the pedals of an exercise bike go round and round.

Quite a few times in 45 minutes.

That's it from me.

Sunday, March 10, 2013

My guide to the garment district

My blogging has been about as slow as my sewing lately. A crazy work schedule, a bit of a flu, and the usual stuff.

However in case anyone has a trip to the garment district planned here is my person itinerary:

I have organized this so you work your way across by street so there is no turning back. I have also included a lunch place more or less in the middle.

Things you need to know about shopping in the garment district:

1. This is a place for special not bargains. If you want bargains go to NorthWest Fabrics on Berry Street in Winnipeg which is sort of out of the way for this itinerary.

2. The many ground floor stores tend not to be the good ones, for fabric that is. A lot of show fabrics and sequins but not garment fabrics unless you work in Vegas.

3. In many cases you have to go up a few floors in an elevator of what looks like an office building to find the fabric store, which may be crammed full of bolts.

4. The staff in these places work. This is not Joann's or Fabricville where you browse and then take your fabric over to be cut. These folks work it - think personal shopper. When you go in they ask what you are interested in and they start pulling bolts and making suggestions. They find things for you and tell you honestly if it suits you. This is very helpful because there is so much and it can be overwhelming - the expectation is that the sales staff shop with you.

OK here is where I would go and why:

1. Elliott Berman -  225 West 35th, 7th floor. Start here because they are the best. You don't want to blow your budget and then go to Elliot Berman. The fabric is leading edge and unique - new fabric just released from the European mills for the season for example. A little pricey but totally worth it. I got an incredible knit and a rayon challis for $15 and $20 a yard each which was not outrageous since they are beyond cool. (Fabric pictures will be posted when I have more time.) Service is superb.

2. Botani: Buttons and fashion hardware. 263 West 36th. Just go there. I can't describe it. A whole room full of purse making accessories and 40 million buttons. High end but special. They covered my buckles and will dye buttons to match with a few days notice.

3. Mood - 225 West 37th. Third floor. You have to go to Mood too. It is the Garment District's department store. Three floors of everything and wonderful hardworking staff. A full range of fabrics so if you can't find it anywhere else Mood will have it. I got some cottons for summer, silk jersey, ponte and a beautiful coating I am afraid to cut into here.

4. SIL Thread - 257 West 38th Street level. YKK zippers, threads and notions in such quantity that it makes your head spin. Every, every colour. Many of the zippers are 36" as the standard and they cut and finish to size for you while you wait.

5. Pacific Trimming: 220 West 38th Street level. You name it they got it. Buttons, trims and all points in between. I actually prefer them to the more expensive if better known M&J Trim on Sixth.

6. Paron's Fabrics: 257 West 39th.  Street level.  Great quality of conventional fabrics - wool suitings and boucles for example. I picked up a great Linton tweed here for a Channel jacket. Good value for the quality. 

7. Chic Fabrics: 225 West 39th Street level. Really the best prices in the district, particularly for dress cottons and silk - not as fashion forward but solid quality. I got two dress cotton prints here.

Lunch?

I would go to Ben's Kosher Deli 209 West 38th. It is big there so there is lots of room for all your bags of fabric and the food is nourishing. I like the Matzo Ball chicken soup and a tea when I need to regroup.

Monday, March 4, 2013

Fancy eating in the big city report

There wasn't a lot of sewing done around here this weekend.

My son-in-law was away and both the little girls were pretty sick so I was over a lot helping out my daughter. Everyone appears to be getting better today.

So this is another of my mini updates to report on a strong food trend I saw in NYC when I was out with my food sophisticated son and his really so nice girlfriend.

The first one was something called cereal milk.

This is a re-creation of the stuff you used to pour into the sink after the kids ran off and left a big puddle of milk at the bottom of the cereal bowl. You know the stuff that made you yell after them "If you aren't going to finish it don't waste all this milk on your cereal".

Just like your mom used to say to you.

Well New York cereal milk is served in hip milk bars for $5 a glass and is made of milk blended up with cornflakes and a bit of sugar. Very retro, nostalgico apparently and actually pretty good.

That was gold we were pouring down that sink.

Number two was at a very trendy restaurant where all the food was delicious but served on those little plates that make you wish someone would bring your a whole dinner plate full. To me, non chic me, a bunch of little plates never quite looks like dinner.

Anyway it was delicious and I was there for the company after all. The meal ended up with dessert, a very nice caramel custard with, guess what around the edges as garnish?

Rice Krispies.

Excellent bit of crunch and an idea I may borrow and might get away with as long as I serve it with the explanation that I first ate this in New York.

What do you think?

Next time I go out I expect someone to put tuna casserole made with a can of mushroom soup on  one of those little plates.

One can only hope.

Thursday, February 28, 2013

Babs' New York style guide

This is a drive by post as I am once again supposed to be marking. But I have so much I want to blog about so will start in snippets over the next few days.

I had a fabulous time in New York and am really feeling I have parts of that place, the parts that matter to me right now, figured out.

Of course I bought fabric, at interesting places and some new places. When I was at Elliot Berman I even said to them "get me a chair this fabric is so beautiful I am going to have to sit down and cry."

And I meant it.

And they did.

I got my buckles covered at Botani, where they told me next time I should bring in swatches and they will dye buttons to match. 

Imagine that.

They did a real good job on the buckles and how much that cost, well somethings a girl will just have to take to her grave.

Let's say I have eaten out for less.

In New York.

But live experiences are an investment. Particularly the ones you won't be repeating.

OK I have to remember the title to this post.

I made a few high style observations in the big city I need to pass on. After all this is the metropolis where I am sure they were knotting giant scarves around their necks when the rest of us were wearing button earrings.

This is what I saw as the trends:

1. Pants are short. Like above the ankle and narrow (pants not ankles). This means you need a good ankle, boots or booties, or maybe nice socks - fishnet I saw more than sports socks.

2. Handbags over your shoulder are out. Even though they are good for carrying spare shoes, lunches, and dog leashes. You should be bending your arm and carrying your purse like this:


Not a New Yorker but more fashion forward than we all thought.

That's it for tonight.

Some heavy ideas for you all to chew on.


Sunday, February 17, 2013

Wrapping up SWAP, at least conceptually

On Thursday I am off to New York again, to see my son and his girlfriend, and I might swing by the garment district again.

What do you think?

I am seriously considering some sage advice Carolyn gave me last visit, and concentrate this time on hard-to-find-here notions, rather than fabric.

Of course if I manage to walk those streets and not bring home any fabric you will know for sure I have for some reason become a totally different person.

I hope the weather is good, to me NYC is a wonderful walking town and I am a walker, you see more. 

I am also looking forward to seeing my AirBnB host Eric again, he was such a nice guy. Of course he is a young New Yorker and eats every meal out. He is also a designer and my suspicion is that the spice jars on his kitchen shelves are only there because they colour co-ordinate. 

I had a glass of water in his kitchen (yes I was eating out all the time too, there are so many cool places and such excellent people watching) and I asked him for a "tea towel" to dry the glass. He has never heard of such a thing and the closest we could come to was he said "you mean a dish rag" which I don't think I meant at all - who would dry a glass with a rag? 

On my to-do list is "get Eric a tea towel." 

I wonder if the Superstore has them in grey.

I intend to take it easy this trip and wander around and drink tea and look at the people and go into stores and look at the clothes and probably go to MOMA and of course FIT has a shoe exhibition going on and I'm not missing that.

I have a lot on my mind.

I was catching up on my time wasting yesterday and I went over to BurdaStyle.

I had sort of given up on Burda lately since I decided to only sew Real Life clothes and my real life does not require many tight satin blouses with plunging necklines or coats without any closures.

I was surprised and pleased to see that the latest round is more liveable, wearable. Maybe this is because tight clothes and low waisted pants are going out of fashion and looser profiles have returned. Once we all get used to this new look I think we are all going to be more comfortable.

One thing that caught my eye was this coat, which remarkably is in a tall size, which I am.

What do you think?


This seems to me to be a cool coat and now I am wondering if I should make it as my SWAP sign off coat instead of the Vogue pattern below I had intended, which I could now make as a jacket version:
I would like some feedback on this.

Of course if I go with the Burda pattern then somewhere in NYC I am going to have to find someone who can cover a couple of buckles for me while I wait or at least within the day.

Life is so complicated.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Pants on a cold day


First the photographer, in putting some hot water in a bucket to thaw out the heat pump. The funny look on his face is he thought doing an outside photoshoot was sort of a dumb idea today.


Mitts I knit and felted out of Lopi. They are a bit like wearing a roll of paper towel on your hands, but warm.

I caught myself feeling particularly happy today and then I realized why. 

Snow has slowed this city down to a near standstill and I have been able to do nothing but cocoon in here with my husband and my dog and sew.

Perfect.

Since I was in a fooling around mood and, waiting still for those summer patterns and raincoat pattern to arrive from BMV, I decided to try the Claudia pattern from StyleArc. 

I have been feeling I wanted narrow ankle pants lately. 

Those full hem, thin thigh, dropped waist pants that have been in for so long are annoying me. Of course they look elegant worn the way they are supposed to be with 4" heels and long hems that touch the ground but if you have the kind of life where you are running up hills late for class, or loading dogs and grandchildren into cars, you wear flats and instead elegant you get flappy hems and stubby looking legs.

So the Claudia pant appealed to me. 

It is meant to be made out of stretch woven, and I had that, and have a seam down the centre of the leg which creates a feel of a crease. 

One thing I can tell you if you are thinking of getting into the new slimmer pants, is they absolutely have to have a crease to look right - a relief in a way for us old school mother types who learned the hard way "Moooom, you ruined my pants you ironed lines down them", that creases were now longer in - because now they are back.

The waist is also waist high and there is a dart in the middle of the back hem, I am not sure why but I am sure it is very useful.

This particular pattern was not on my pile-o-pants and now I wish it had been, because these are comfortable and would make good every day pants. Now I just need some nice stretch woven cotton which is going to require some fabric buying somewhere other than the bottom of the street.

Here are the shots. 

Taken on location, styled with some wet mitts and some cord from some snow blowing unit on the sidewalk and with fox terrier accents, and shorty snowboots:



My bum, Rascal's bum. The fabric is stretch so they are more comfortable than it might look in that area and I have learned to live with the under the rear wrinkles that you get when you need a lot of fabric to cover that part and then the fabric has to hit skinnier legs. Some things in life are to be lived with.


Since I was already amusing the neighbourhood with having my picture taken outside on a cold day I decided to show you some of my Vogue 1264 pants, four variations of which I made for my SWAP.

Here they are as per pattern in wool gabardine. 

The thigh is quite full in this pant, which is good in gab if you want them to be comfortable to sit down in which these are. I lengthened them because the original pattern is above the ankle by a lot but I over did it. This afternoon I am going to go back and chop 1 1/2" inches off the hem and re-hem them - another thing I learned about these slim pants, in addition to the need for creases, is they really need to be shorter so they look current and not '80s.




See what I mean? This will be fine much shorter with the right shoe. There can not be any kind of fold in the crease in pants like this.
Finally here is the same Vogue pattern in a stretch woven, leg narrowed a bit as a result and a short length.

So that does it for me for pants for a while, about seven pairs all up and only one to re-hem. 

Back to work tomorrow and to incubating the next projects.