Stripes

I have to say something came in through my inbox this week that disturbed me. It was this picture for a new Morris jacket pattern from Grainline Studios:

You know I have had excellent experience with Grainline. I have made and worn both the Archer shirt and Adler dress and I like them both. 

A lot.

But this sample garment disturbed me because the stripes don't match along the very obvious centre back seam, and judging from the difference of the stripes at the front points, the stripes don't match along centre front either. The side seams I can't comment on because the sleeves cover them.

Listen you all know I am not the world's most fussy sewer. 

I worry a lot more about the outside looking good than I do about the inside looking as good as the outside. (Sorry mom and both sewing grandmothers).

I am after all the person whose nerves were so frayed by a largely hand-stitched Chanel jacket that I almost took it out onto the driveway and drove the SUV back and forth over it. I would have done that in fact but the garbage men came first.

But I am just disappointed to see such an obvious lack of care here. That these stripes are out of whack in a promotional photo for a new pattern described in glowing terms bothers me.

It is like when you go all out to a very nice restaurant and then you notice that there is someone else's bright red lipstick on your glass - sort of makes you wonder if they are wearing their hairnets in the kitchen.

Bit of a let down.

The thing is matching stripes is real easy.

The trick is to cut out single layer. 

You will never get it right if you are working blind with one layer hidden underneath. Fabric, particularly striped fabric, likes to move around under there.

If your pattern piece is in two parts like this back with a centre back seam, all you have to do is cut out one, flip it over so you're getting same sides together, and fiddle around with it so the stripes on the bottom piece are in the exact same place as you see the stripes on the top piece. Then you just cut around the pinned pattern piece as it lays on the bottom layer of fabric, and you are done.

Two identical striped matched patterns pieces that with a bit of care can be stitched up so the stripes stay matched.

And of course if you are cutting a piece that  needs to be cut on the fold, just pin your pattern to the single layer, cut it out carefully stopping the cut exactly at the fold line, then flip that piece over, folding it along the fold line. Then, sandwiching the pinned paper pattern between the two layers of fabric, adjust so the stripes all match, and cut it out.

That's how to do it in words, the illustrations are clear here in my mind's eye. If I had an Apple phone I am sure I could press it to my forehead and you could see it too.

I mean no disrespect to the pattern designer here. I do understand that some samples are made under pressure and when you are tired, but really if it is the picture you are using to sell your pattern you really need to just call me and I will come right over and do this part for you.

A good pattern should look like it is.

The Alder shirt dress

Before I start talking about this pattern I want to say a few things about indie pattern designers.

The www and .pdf patterns have created a new environment where anyone with an idea can connect with customers as an independent pattern designer.

Almost entirely I think this is a marvellous development that has given me, as a sewer, so much more access to so many more great designers with terrific ideas and wonderful patterns.

There are of course a few that do not deliver exactly all that they promise, but lets be honest, raise your hands if you have ever sewn a pattern from the big four that was less than stellar, or even a real lemon? 

My point exactly.

I was reminded of that this week when I was shown a skirt pattern from a blogger turned pattern designer and author that I could tell would not sew up as well as it could. It was for an A line skirt, a wide one, with the straight of grain along centre front rather than down the centre of the panel. What this means, and I know because I ran into this once with a big four pattern, is that the sides will stick out at the hem like big triangles rather than falling evenly around (does this make sense?)

I think what happened it is that the pieces looked like you would think an A line skirt piece would look like, as if you just drew it, but of course pattern pieces, good ones, think about more than shapes, they also consider what the fabric wants to do on its own - like hang with the grain.

So maybe not everyone who thinks they are a pattern maker is quite there yet, I know I am not and never would be.

But with all that said I have to say that the vast, vast majority of indie patterns I have tried have been exceptional and reflect a very thoughtful approach to garment making that incorporates some intelligent fixing of common problems.

Take Sewaholic for example. 

The cowl on the Renfrew top is amazing, two shaped pieces that really give a beautiful drape that is simply not possible in the usual large rectangles you see for cowl pieces in most patterns.

I have been similarly impressed with Grainline's patterns to date, and if I weren't currently on the DL you would be looking at an Archer shirt right now.

Instead here is an Alder dress I finished this week.

I added 4" to length because I am tall but apart from that this was made right out of the envelope. What was surprising to me was how loose it was, which I liked, as this makes it an incredibly comfortable and wearable dress. I will be making multiples with this pattern, with variations, just you wait: