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I am a mother, a new grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My first book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge will be published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon


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Sunday, July 30, 2017

Granville shirt: a semi review

A long time ago now I cut out and almost finished a Granville shirt from Sewaholic. The Sewaholic knit T shirt pattern, the Renfrew, is one of my all time favourite patterns. The shoulders on the Renfrew fit well and the pattern navigates that fine and elusive line between too fitted and sloppy. I love it.

I had similar hopes for the Granville.  I have to say it is another well-drafted Sewaholic pattern. The pieces for this shirt go together precisely and the fit is perfect for a body that fits Sewaholic's pear- shape profile.

A minute here to detour on one of my new themes.

This thought is that so many fitting issues can be dealt with by working with a pattern draft that matches the body you are working with.

In the old days we didn't have many options. 

The Big 4 with their more or less similar sizing and basic blocks were supposed to fit everyone and they didn't. As a result there were a million how to fit articles written and a millions cuts and pastes made to countless patterns, and an infinite number of 1/2" or more cut on as "extra" outside pattern pieces.

Sometimes this worked and sometimes it didn't.

At any rate it was a lot of effort to get a pattern to fit.

All of that has changed with the many new indie pattern companies. The determined fit challenged sewer has many more opportunities to find a pattern company that has her shape in mind. As a result major fitting work has sometimes been reduced to minor tweaks.

And isn't that great?

So all of that means that the Granville shirt is excellent for pears but not quite as perfect for us bananas.

I find the side seams very curved out at the hip for me, and the shoulders a bit too sloped. In addition I don't feel that man style collar shirts really work on my scrawny neck and shoulders, so this shirt, one that I cut off to make short sleeves, will likely not be one I will make for myself again, but would recommend to the other right people.

I had fun making it, in a nice loud summery cotton, and I particularly enjoyed matching the pocket.

Now a question for you. 

Stylearc pants are perfect for me out of the envelope, but I sometimes find their tops too wide shouldered. Jalie on the other hand fits my upper body.

What pattern companies work for your own figure and why?

This is information other sewers might find useful.


birdmommy said...

Burda pants are pretty close to perfect for me, and the alterations I need are always consistent (+2 inches in the rise). I haven't found my ideal upper body garment company yet; most are too wide in the shoulders, and don't take a large FBA well. I have great hopes for Cashmerette, but if I lose this pesky 20 pounds, I'll have sized down out of their range. Maybe I should start looking at Jalie...

edube said...

I find Jalie works for me pretty consistently, both tops and bottoms. Some even fit right out of the envelope! I am a short, pear shape and post menopausal ( with its particular fitting challenges). Thanks for discussion on this topic. I think you granville looks great!

Anonymous said...

I enjoy the flared over the hips shirt shape for myself on my rather lumpy pear shape, but also on you, where it looks jaunty and cool (in both senses of the word) to me. Great beach umbrella fabric!


jirons42 said...

Your pocket match is so perfect that I din't even know it was there until you mentioned it!

Sewing princess said...

I'm pear-shaped and usually loved Sewaholic fit. However had fitting problems when I made Alma...the shoulder width was off. Recently I made my second style arc pattern and really liked their fit. I had mixed results with Burdastyle. Colette old patterns were often a nightmare for me. I love Paco Peralta's fit. Whenever I can I reuse patterns to minimize adjustments

Sheila said...

For trousers find Style Arc is a good fit with their crutch curve, Had some of my most successful pants with them. For tops that fit well in the shoulder/neck area but flow flatteringly over the abdomen area use
Saf-t-pockets, simply terrific tee pattern. Pattern is very reasonably priced plus is a download which saves on postage.

SuzieB said...

Love the colors in your shirt & the beach umbrella print but the shirt is too big. You mentioned not liking the neck style on you - but you're not the problem, it's that the shirt is soooo large. Shoulders too. As usual I have nothing to contribute re: patterns that work for me. Stil "refashioning"!

Laceflower said...

I love my StyleArc Barb pant although I find it disconcerting that I have to shorten the length by 2"; never in my long sewing garment life have I had to shorten anything! Also, it has no pockets. Otherwise have been making Tilton styles that don't fit closely but still do a prominent shoulder blade adjustment so that the neck sits where it is supposed to. Having a body double, made with glued butcher tape has been a major help in fitting and giving confidence before cutting the fashion fabric.

Anonymous said...

Would love anyone's input for those of us with muscular legs. A youth spent Irish dancing and an avid cyclist in my fifties means that pants are too small in the legs and too big in the waist, even though I too am post menopausal.