The beauty of this project is:
1. It's fast, none of the pattern pieces are cut, all can be torn and as each piece is a rectangle.
2. These instructions work for any size person, all you need are six measurements.
3. It is a great stash buster, for a child under ten you need about 2 1/2 yards for an adult 4-5
4. Can be nearly entirely done on a serger
I will be posting pictures of the hard to visualize parts later in the weekend.
1. Essential measurements:
· widest part - chest, waist or hips
· shoulder at neck to finished length
· armpit to finished length
I will be posting pictures of the hard to visualize parts later in the weekend.
1. Essential measurements:
· widest part - chest, waist or hips
· shoulder at neck to finished length
· armpit to finished length
. centre front to side seam
Also measure from centre neck to hip bone level, this is an important reference measurement.
2. Cut :
· One main piece ( in length double your finished length measurement plus allowances and the width of half your widest measurement plus ease, 6-8” for an adult 4” for a child.
· Two front over/underlap pieces in width about from centre front to side seam and equal in length to the armpit/finished measurement plus allowances.
· A neckband, for an adult I make these about a hand width X 2 (that way it is sized for the person, works well for children). The length should be from hip bone level around the neck and back to the hip. Plus seam allowances.
2. Cut :
· One main piece ( in length double your finished length measurement plus allowances and the width of half your widest measurement plus ease, 6-8” for an adult 4” for a child.
· Two front over/underlap pieces in width about from centre front to side seam and equal in length to the armpit/finished measurement plus allowances.
· A neckband, for an adult I make these about a hand width X 2 (that way it is sized for the person, works well for children). The length should be from hip bone level around the neck and back to the hip. Plus seam allowances.
· Two sleeve rectangles, to give a ¾ sleeve, I usually have the wearer extend her arm straight out and measure from the top of the arm to below the bust/chest, double that and plus seam allowances for the length and measure from the body out along the arm to where they want the sleeves to end and that's the width of this pattern piece. Plus seam allowances.
· A tie, your choice.
3. Fold main piece in half width wise to find shoulder and in half again to find center front. Cut up through center front, stopping in the middle. Cut out from center each side to make a 6-8" neck opening, the front will be cut in a V later.
4. Right sides together pin and stitch overlap rectangles to center front, lining up the short end of one rectangle with the bottom edge. Finish edge of the overlap piece. Fold the whole garment in half lengthwise. Mark hip bone level depth from shoulder line to a point on the long finished edge of the overlap. Cut up through both layers from hip level to point of shoulder/neckline, slicing off a lot of fabric but making a long V neckline (illustrations to follow).
5. Right sides together fold neckband in half. Stitch ends, turn and press. Machine baste long edges together. Matching centres pin band to back neck edge and diagonally down the front, Stitch.
6. Fold over the neckband, covering the stitching and topstitch/ditch stitch in place.
7. Match centers of sleeve to garment and pin, right sides together. Stitch.
8. Stitch up side seams and bottom of the sleeve, pivot and stitch up the sleeve front a few inches, leaving the rest of the seam free as a sleeve opening.
9. Make tie and hems.
3. Fold main piece in half width wise to find shoulder and in half again to find center front. Cut up through center front, stopping in the middle. Cut out from center each side to make a 6-8" neck opening, the front will be cut in a V later.
4. Right sides together pin and stitch overlap rectangles to center front, lining up the short end of one rectangle with the bottom edge. Finish edge of the overlap piece. Fold the whole garment in half lengthwise. Mark hip bone level depth from shoulder line to a point on the long finished edge of the overlap. Cut up through both layers from hip level to point of shoulder/neckline, slicing off a lot of fabric but making a long V neckline (illustrations to follow).
5. Right sides together fold neckband in half. Stitch ends, turn and press. Machine baste long edges together. Matching centres pin band to back neck edge and diagonally down the front, Stitch.
6. Fold over the neckband, covering the stitching and topstitch/ditch stitch in place.
7. Match centers of sleeve to garment and pin, right sides together. Stitch.
8. Stitch up side seams and bottom of the sleeve, pivot and stitch up the sleeve front a few inches, leaving the rest of the seam free as a sleeve opening.
9. Make tie and hems.
1 comment:
Thank you so much for writing these instructions! I've always coveted a kimono, and I find the whole pattern - to - fabric process so tiring. So thanks to you I can now make a patternless kimono. How great is that? I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product.
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