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I am a mother, a grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge was published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon
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Showing posts with label How to use an adjustable hemmer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label How to use an adjustable hemmer. Show all posts

Sunday, February 23, 2020

Vintage sewing machine attachment project: the adjustable hemmer

 Adjustable hemmer:



Concept:  Although the adjustable hemmer looks very complex it is actually quite simple. There are two parts- on the front, a hem depth measuring scale and on the back, a hem folder-underer  (hope you can follow the technical terminology). Once set up, the adjustable hemmer will turn under the raw edge of the hem allowance and situate the needle to stitch an exquisitely tiny and precise distance from that edge, while at the same time it evenly turns down the larger hem allowance – all without pre-pressing or pinning.




Uses:

The adjustable hemmer can be used to machine stitch down hems of a variety of widths without the need to press or pin first.

How it works:
The adjustable hemmer can be used with the measuring ruler engaged to fold under and stitch hems from 1/8” to 1” .





With the measuring ruler moved to the left and front, possible when the screw that attaches it is loosened, the adjustable hemmer can also be used to stitch down much wider hems, although the hem allowance will need to be turned under and pressed. The hemmer will then only turn under and stitch the raw edge of the hem allowance. Below the measuring gauge, which controls hem depth, has been moved out of the way so only the hem edge will be folded.






Tricks for using it:

Understanding how the numbers on the measuring scale work can be a bit tricky. The large screw clearly seen on the gauge can be loosened to move, and then set metal pointer to any number on the scale. Each of these numbers corresponds to a finished hem depth:

Pointer set at:                                   Creates a hem of this depth (inches)

1                                                                                                                           1/8
2                                                                                                                           1/4
3                                                                                                                           3/8
4                                                                                                                           1/2
5                                                                                                                           5/8
6                                                                                                                           3/4
7                                                                                                                           7/8
8                                                                                                                           1

(Source: A manual of family sewing machines. Guildford, Surrey: The Singer Company (U.K.) Ltd., 1963, p. 44)
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