Two things to think about when making T shirts

I have decided, atypically, to make some practical clothes for the summer. I am still going on the bathing suit tear, expect more on that later, and on some maternity leggings for my DIL, but am doing a few T shirt side projects.

There are a few things this T shirt making has brought to mind.

1. Fabric really makes a difference. 

I think we tend to think that when a pattern is for knits that this means any knit with the right degree of stretch (and hopefully the pattern is specific about this, either with a 4" of fabric should stretch to here, or a % figure) can be used in any pattern.

When you think about this, assuming that a knit is a knit is a knit doesn't make sense. After all when we sew with woven fabrics we don't assume that all are suitable. Who would make the same pattern in say a melton, a corduroy, a poplin and a chiffon and expect them all to work equally well?

So why do we grab any knit for say a project that says for knits and expect it to work?

A T-shirt that looks great in a cotton lycra for instance, is this Jalie classic T ,I made for my daughter this week:

This is a close fitted top and needed the structure of the cotton lycra to hold the shape without being clingy. I thought this one really worked; a good example of cotton lycra appropriate to the pattern. By contrast I have tried to use cotton lycra is fuller shirts and been very disappointed - any degree of flare and it just sticks out.

The new Mimosa top from Jalie is really an expanded, literally, version of this shape, from fitted to boxy and it is interesting that the fabric requirements specify something that flows.

I followed this advice when I made my first one, you have also seen this shot before, and it is worth noting that the rayon I used had pretty much the same degree of stretch as the cotton lycra above, but because of fabric content, and this is important, it had a completely different hand and considerably more drape:

I was quite happy with this top too and was glad I had used such a flowy fabric considering the tie thing going on with the sleeves and the fact I wanted to wear it with a fitted skirt. This is such a light feeling top and so comfortable.

But this version brings me to thought #2.

2. Now the first time I make any pattern I always try to make it up as per specs because there seems to me to be no point in adjusting something without seeing first how the design works (some folks call this a muslin I call these garments clothes-to-wear-walking-the-dog.)

The first version of the Mimosa worked I thought but it reminded me that it's important to remember your bones.

I made the Mimosa 1.0 as per my bust measurement, which often works just fine with Jalies because they are not drafted for big shoulders. But in a light fabric with a scoop neckline I definitely felt it was too loose around my meatless shoulders. Even though the shoulder seams were sitting in the right place I wasn't filling out the upper chest well.

Which returned me to one of the first principles of fitting which is to use your upper bust for choosing a pattern size and add where you need it from there down.

The first Mimosa I made was a size W, my size for bust, waist and hips, but for my next version I traced off a smaller upper bust/neck, size U, and by mid armhole returned to the W.

Here is the result (pardon the wild fabric this was piece that came to me in a Fabricmart mystery box) and you can see what a difference this makes - only the neckline and upper chest is a different size than the version above but the whole shirt looks totally different. I have to say that one reason I like Jalies is that they have such a huge number of sizes in each pattern, with only an inch apart between each, so it is easy to make these minor tweaks in fit:

Really folks I am really happy with this shoulder fit now combined with the loose body shape to me this is a winner and a new TNT.

For those familiar with the pattern I have made one other construction change. The sleeve view here was for the sleeves to be rolled up. Since my fabric had both a right and a wrong side I made a deep hem instead and folded that up again to make the rolled up look. I then tacked it by machine a the underarm and with a few stitches at the fold on the upper arm.

I have some other patterns to try out for T shirts but this one is definitely going in the personal file.