Let's face it.
The issues with knit hems tend to be most acute with those knits that are light weight and very stretchy. There are lots of things you can do to change these characteristics of course, like fusing a lightweight knit interfacing into the hem area, but sometimes it is best to go around that problem than try to solve it.
This is what I mean.
A few years ago I made the Sewaholic Renfrew top - a knit top with a well-deserved reputation as a successful sew particularly among new sewers.
I actually worked with a group of new sewists as they worked with this pattern and I can attest to both the quality of the draft the great results everyone in the group got with this pattern.
One of the pattern's secrets of course is that there is no real hem in any view. The bottom of the top is finished with a band, a more or less 1-to-1 band, rather than the pulled in rib bottom we are used to seeing in sweat shirts and rather than a turned and stitched hem.
Since the band is attached more or less like just an extension of the garment, it functions to both add some weight to the bottom of the top, since the band is doubled, and to avoid any real hemming stitching too.
Here are the pattern line drawings:
And here is one of my versions in a light silk knit ( the ultimate travel top BTW- I swear you could pack this little number in a teacup, that's how much silk jersey compresses):
|When on my body this bottom band lies flat and smooth|
I will use this approach in hemming a cardigan I have planned for some very droopy and loose, but quite lovely, sweater knit I have backed up on the runway.
In fact I have even found a pattern that uses this approach Burdastyle#111 from 03/2014:
Interesting idea to think about isn't it?
If you can't lateral think your knit sewing when can you?
Even more hemming tomorrow.