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I am a mother, a new grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My first book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge will be published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon


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Wednesday, August 1, 2012

Stretch lace

Flushed with the success of the Magic Skirt I detoured myself for a stop at the fabric store at the bottom of the street yesterday in search of some decent stretch lace to use for a fancier version of this skirt.

I like all the lace yardage I see around for fall.

I thought it might not be a bad idea to have something in the can in case my life gets unexpectedly more glamorous.

Of course all the lace sitting out for bridal season was not stretchy at all, and this pattern requires that, but I did find some ends of cotton, wooly looking stretch lace marked down to about $5.00 a piece.

So I got those. I think they can be turned into some lace skirts that I could wear to work, which is a place I go to more often than out on the town:

The one on the left is actually more purple than pink in real life and there is a bit more black thread in the more cotton looking one on the right.

My plan now is to line both with black something but I am torn about what to use to do that.

Here are my thoughts:

1. Light weight black knit of some kind but that might stick to these textured knits and ride up. That's the kind of thing you don't discover until you are on the bus or stand up at a meeting.

2. Nothing. And wear a black slip under them. Which might ride up. Or might not.

3. Underline with black knit.

4. Underline with black slip like tricot.

I have a ton of work to do today so I am going to percolate this huge issue in the back of my mind.

What would you do if you were me?


Anonymous said...

I am a lurking Halifax beginning sewer and read your posts with great interest :)
Did you find this lace at Fabricville? Looks promising!

SewRuthie said...

I have to vote for '4. Underline with black slip like tricot.' as I think the lining needs to be both stretchy and slippery. I buy bits of knit which has these qualities for such purposes, though they currently reside in the stash, they will be there when I want them!

Calypso Flowers said...

It's a bit off-topic, but I wondered if you could possibly do a post on re-purposing/using knit - as in no-longer used sweaters ? I've got a couple which are too long/dated but the fabric is really good. I'm not sure how to finish the edges once I've cut them etc. Thanks, Denise

debbie said...

I'm in the underlining in a black tricot group.

Last summer I made a sun dress from a white terry burnout that I underlined w/a tricot. It worked out perfectly.

Anonymous said...

I would use black stretch poplin or statine.

Kay said...

I think I would use a stretch satin lining, with the shiny side facing inward. I would want a heavier, more substantial fabric backing that lace. That way, if/when the lace sticks to the lining, the lining will hold it down instead of the lace pulling the lining up. I choose lining instead of underlining just because I like the look of a lace overskirt skimming over its underskirt.

I bought this pattern a couple of years ago, and was a little disappointed when I took it out of the envelope - it just looked like 2 basically rectangular pieces. Ah, but the magic is in the directions! Once you go through the fitting and transfer the alterations to the pattern, you can make this in about an hour, and be confident it will flatter your figure. I have at least half a dozen of these, in a variety of fabrics, from heavy double-knit and ponte to stretch woven menswear, to the preppy plaid cotton I'm wearing today. In fact, I have an off-white stretch sateen on the cutting table right now. And since I'm short, it only takes about 3/4 yard, so I can use up all those leftovers. :-)

Today's skirt is a shirt-weight cotton, so I underlined it with a heavier tricot I had in the stash - I think it's swimsuit lining. The underlining keeps it from bagging out or wrinkling too badly.

I also have 2 denim magic skirts, one in very stretchy black denim (which I love!) and one in a lighter weight non-stretch denim. I just made a back seam and slit in the non-stretch, then top-stitched the seams with jeans top-stitch thread. Just in case you have a yard of that denim left...

Kay said...

to follow up on the first paragraph of my previous comment, I would use a stretch satin AS a lining...

BetsyV said...

underline with a black knit or anything. underlining stays with the garment.

Catherine Daze said...

I'd underline, probably with knit.

Weaverbec said...

I would underline with a bottom-weight, stretch fabric. Can't wait to see your results!

LinB said...

Underline with the heaviest "slip-like tricot" you can find. It will act like a slip against your body, and will only ride up if the lace skirt rides up also. That is a whole 'nother problem, which you may not ever have to face. Let's hope so, anyway.

gwensews said...

If I were you, first of all I would find some fabulous places to go to wear those fancy skirts. And then I would sew them, coordinating something on top (if you wish) and of course, pair some marvy shoes!

Martha said...

Timely post. I am currently making a dress that may prove to be a bit transparent. I was wondering about tricot. I think it will work best for both of us. I wonder if there is a source for it online?

Barbara said...

My comments on comments:

Marcia yes I got that stretch lace at Fabricville. Look on the shelves under the cutting table.

Denise, re, re-purposing sweaters. Haven't done it but if I did I would probably hand hem or double needle the hems, or cut off the ribbing and sew it on again. Have to think about this. I notice Pamela from Pamela's patterns has a repurposing T shirt pattern that might be helpful.

Kay interested in the woven version, understand the back slit but what about ease? Might try transferring this pattern to wovens.

Thanks all for the advice, very re-affirming. Martha I have some tricot in the stash I am going to start with and I am sure some lingerie places have it online.

Kay said...

Barbara, I don't remember exactly how much ease I added to the denim version, but I think I moved the pattern about 1/2" from the fold for each piece, then fooled with the seam width till it worked. It's pretty snug when I put it on in the morning, but fits fine by the time I'm ready to leave the house.

I was reminded as I pulled the laundry out of the dryer that I also have another version in a stretch poplin shirt-weight that is lined in 40 denier tricot, which reminded me that I have an online source:

Their prices seem pretty good to me, and they have lots of alternatives that I don't find locally, even though I'm in a pretty dense area.

I did find the tricot a little lightweight for this application. the skirt with the swimsuit lining has a more substantial feel without being bulky. Sew Sassy has a number of fabric alternatives that might work better.