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I am a mother, a new grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My first book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge will be published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon


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Saturday, July 9, 2011

FBAing Vogue 1236

I actually think my process with this pattern is part of a larger discussion. That discussion would include my continuing evolution as a sewer who is working towards having her sewing reflect who she is really is and what works for her. It takes time.

OK this is where this is going.

In the old days if I made something and it was too tight-short-funny somewhere or weird I would toss the pattern, hang the garment up, make myself wear it a few times and then give myself permission to throw it out. Probably I would mark it all up to a "bad pattern", at least for me. My approach to handling this wadder of sorts was to go on the prowl for another pattern, a better pattern.

This was my standard operating procedure, and a category into which I would have put Vogue 1236 at least partially for the issues I listed before, although they were mainly the result of operator error.

However there were things I really liked about this pattern:

  • The neckline fit and the shoulders were well-situated on my shoulders. This is a well drafted pattern and that's the areas where so many summer dresses don't quite work.
  • I really liked the full all in one type facing, you can see it here is an in-process shot before the final pressing of the first version of this dress:

This is why sewing a designer pattern is so enjoyable.

But I needed to have done a FBA, I know I did, and so I went back and gave this one another try. We will know tomorrow when it is hemmed and the pictures are taken, but I think it worked.

The challenges of adding to the bust in this dress were not wanting to interfere at all with the design lines - not the slightly pegged shape of the sides and hemline, not the neckline with those nice pleats that stayed put without any flipping up (whatever the shot above may look like). And a side bust dart was out with the strong vertical lines of this dress.

So here is what I did:

1. I located my bust point by measuring down from the inside neck edge of the strap for length and out from the side seam  (note I couldn't measure from the centre front because of all that pleat action).

2. I drew a line from the side seam to the bust point and also down from the middle of the shoulder so I could get in the ease that wearing the first edition made me realize I needed for bust space even at the upper bust.

Here is what the pattern piece looked before I cut:

And after I spread it to get in that extra bust fabric. Super easy and I think it worked. You can decide for yourself tomorrow when I get the pictures of the finished dress done.


Patty said...

Looking forward to seeing the finished dress with the FBA. This dress is next on my list and I know I'll need to make that adjustment too. Thanks for posting your process!

Bunny said...

Thanks for those pictures. You make what could be a complicated fix really quite simple. Many would just add to CF and not get the extra needed in the strap area.

Karen in VA said...

Thanks for posting the pic of how you did the FBA. Can't wait to see the finished dress...

Linda said...

I think you are on the right track with the FBA. A good source for making FBA is the Palmer/Pletsch Fit for Real People book and they have a Bust Fitting DVD that I have found even more helpful. I thnk your dress is going to turn out okay!!

LindaNan said...

I'm wondering if you added length to the center part.

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