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I am a mother, a new grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My first book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge will be published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon


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Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Pants research

With all that is going on in this house at the moment any sane person would not be thinking about sewing.

But I am, maybe that is keeping me sane; I just thought about that. The way I see it if you can't sew with your hands you can still sew in your mind, and housecleaning leaves a lot of mental space for thinking.

So I have been planning and researching the pants project. 

One decision I have had to make is what patterns I am going to use for the pivot and slide and Joyce Murphy techniques. I have been pondering the Burda crotch as so many great sewers swear by it and decided to email Joyce to see what she thought. Here is part of that exchange, reproduced with her permission:

Start with my JSM Pant 1 pattern or a Burda. The crotch curve in my JSM Pant 1 pattern and a Burda pattern are almost identical. They have the long back crotch shelf and the short front crotch fork which puts the back inseam from knee to crotch on the bias and leaves the front inseam closer to the straight of grain. I use this bias if I need to lower the entire back crotch shelf straight down to give more room low in the seat. This shortens the back inseam making it necessary to stretch the back inseam to meet the front in sewing. The JSM Pant 1 pattern is deigned with the back inseam slightly shorter than the front out of the envelope.

Interesting. Since a baggy front crotch is one of my pant fitting challenges, I will definitely be testing one of the Burda patterns. I have looked at the JSM pant but because is missing some of the design features I like and has some I don't (tapered leg, fly front and slant pockets) I think that adjusting all that might get in the way of fitting. So I think what I will do is use the Murphy method on a Burda pant and Pivot and Slide on a pattern from the Big 4.

At least that is today's plan. Looking forward to October 1 and getting this project launched.

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