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I am a mother, a new grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My first book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge will be published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon


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Wednesday, June 6, 2018

Genius ideas: Jalie's Frederic hoodie and my husband with his clothes on

I have made my husband a few hooded or polar fleece jackets in the past, I will mention no pattern names, and I haven't been too happy with them.

To be perfectly honest those attempts looked home-made. No other way to put it. Despite the fact they were actually made at home, this is never the look I am going for. The shapes of those jackets were boxy and the details minimal, they just didn't have style, which when you are making a hoodie is already a major challenge going in.

When something you have made is put on only when the oil has to be changed in the car... well you know what I mean.

So when I saw a preview of the new 2018 spring Jalie line-up I was pretty interested to see a new men and boys pattern for a hooded jacket.

When I got a look at the construction tricks and nifty details (see first post in this series) in this pattern, well folks I knew we had a winner.

So let's start again with looking at the line art:

Now these pictures, although very nice, don't really make evident the really cool features of this pattern. So I am going to share that with you now:

1. The hood is lined with a lighter weight knit. In addition to providing some opportunity for playing around with other fabrics, this means that when the hood is not on the wearer's head it still looks nice and classy open around the neck.

2. Additionally the seam that connects the hood to the body of the jacket is covered with a knit binding. Again this is a finishing touch that shows and is another chance to play around with fabric.

Here's a shot of the inside of the hood:

3. Speaking of which there are a lot of seams for different fabric/colour blocking, on either sides of the pockets, top and bottom of the jacket pieces, and of course the hood lining and binding. I actually used four different kinds of grey and black knit I had lying around in my version.

4. Last but best, the pockets. These are slant pockets (so neat inside and outside and so comfortable for the hands) with a concealed zipper opening. Now I know you are going to think pocket like this sound like a lot of trouble but these pockets are a snap to make - due to some particularly genius Jalie drafting that I can't even begin to describe in my own words. If I would try I would say you sew on on side of the zipper to a front, fold it over so it makes a sort of welt imitation thing and top stitch the remaining zipper tape down. And then you stand back and think to yourself I can't believe how easy that was and how totally slick it looks. Every jacket pattern should have this pocket. I have never seen anything like it before.

Here are shots of the pockets from the outside and showing the concealed zipper:

5. The fit is completely ready-to-wear if RTW in fact fitted better. This is no no-style, sloppy hoodie.

I used sweatshirt fleece in grey and black and assorted remnants of grey to make this. I am pretty pleased with myself for how it turned out.

Now the pictures.

Recently traumatized by wearing turquoise underwear for a photo shoot my husband decided to take his own pictures for this review.

Knowing him well (I do make his underwear after all) I knew right away that this was his maneuver to turn the photo shoot into his favourite thing which is to fool around with a gadget, in this case a remote control shutter he could hold himself.

Since his most recent gadget enthusiasm resulted in the drone being crashed lens side down on a large rock I decided that having him selfie the shots was a good idea. I was also aware after the underwear shoot I sort of owed him a bit more control of our process.

So here is the first shot, showing the jacket pretty well I think:

We thought this picture turned out quite well and gives you some sense of the pockets.

Next my husband thought you would really want to see him standing beside his motorcycle (out of the garage for its first of many seasonal trips down to the grocery store, which is where they most of the time go).

Unfortunately my husband got a lot of the motor cycle in this shot but missed out on his head. Such is the life of remote control technology.

Just ask the drone.


Lyndle said...

This might be my favourite post ever. Love the motorbike, and the hoodie. And I aporeciate the solution - if faking a smile is too much, just omit the head. Elegant in its simplicity.
Any chance of close ups of the hoodie details, or has that ship sailed?

Lyndle said...

Is it, in fact, 5am there when you are posting this? If so, why? Explain in 100 words or less.

Lyndle said...

Ignore orevious. Bligger doesn’t understand daylight saving, it seems. Have a nice day. By the way, it seems your weather forecast is very similar to ours (but we’re technically starting winter).

Dot Wankat said...

Your husband, like yourself, is a fine, fine person. And his hoodie looks sharp. Really have to look more closely at Jalie patterns. Thanks for this week of your sewing pictures and thoughts.

Barbara said...

Questions answered. I’m doing the posts this week before bed and scheduling them to be published early the next morning for my early birds. Yes i will grab the jacket and do detail shots today. And that serious face was the I’m concentrating on a new gadget, in this case the remote, face. See that a lot around here.

annie said...

Hoodie looks great! Must say that it was difficult looking at the photo w/o imagining turquoise "undies" beneath the clothes. He's such a good sport.

L said...

Thank you for sharing your thoughts on this pattern. I made a Kwik Sew hoodie for the dude and it makes him look pregnant. I will definitely give this one a try. =)

Barbara said...

Detail shots have just been added.

Sandra Thwaites said...

Looks like another pattern I need for the boys/men in my life. May I ask what you used for cuffs and around waist? Line drawing looks like Jalie wanted ribbing for those, but decent ribbing is difficult for me to source and my solution is usually just to avoid any patterns that call for it. It would be great if I didn't have to track some down for this pattern.

MaryEllen said...

Great sweat jacket. Almost afraid to show hubs as he’ll want one 😂. I love, love, love your book & your posts !! I learn so much while smiling - thanks

Andrea said...

Your blog is my new favorite!

bbarna said...

Great job on the Hoodie. I like the tape on the hoodie and the pocket zipper treatment-just like ready to wear.
I have never done much sewing for my husband, he is ten times more picky than a gaggle of teenagers, but 25 years ago I made him a Kwik Sew hoodie. It had to be colour blocked exactly like one he already had, but he did wear it. It took ages, and was the last thing I made for him. Maybe this one will make me brave enough to try again?
Barb from Prince George

Eileensews said...

Great jacket and model!

SewTypical said...

That is one Fantastic Hoodie!

After being afraid of sewing a hoodie for the LONGEST time, I've jumped in and just cut out my 3rd one (a Lekala pattern).

I think I've got most of the steps down pretty well, but have trouble with the part where the hood attaches to the neckline and also covers (?) the top of the zipper in front. The ones i've done so far are (ahem!) less than perfect. Any tips to share?

:-) Chris

AlaskaBerninaGirl said...

OmgOsH, I needed this today. I am pretty sure everyone is wondering what I am giggling about... Anyway, I bet if your hubs took the underwear pics you would have only seen the heads (and not the tails!) Poor guy must be traumatized by that photo shoot. Seriously though, nice undies and a very nice jacket, I think I need to make my husband one also.

I got your book but am saving up for a staycation read later this month. Thanks for sharing today as always.

Esther said...

Hi, Barbara! If you love this pattern, it must be good so I'm getting one, too! Just a quick question: the cuff and bottom of the jacket don't have to be rib knit?

Anonymous said...

The bike makes the whole post better, and complements the hoodie especially well.


Barbara said...

Question answer time. Sew typical, I think I know what you mean about the hood/zipper connection challenge. That wasn't an issue here, the lined hood makes it all neater and the strip of binding covers all the seams. I found this part quite stress free to do.

As to the ribbing question. This is always an issue particularly in a garment that will get a lot of wear and the ribbing fabric, if you can find it, might not hold up as well as the main fabric. I actually didn't used ribbing. Really what you require is something with body and very horizontally stretchy so I used a scrap of mystery knit sort of a heavy swimsuit/exercise knit and am very happy with the results. I hope this idea is helpful.

Bunny said...

Great job and the hoodie is totally higher end retail looking to me. What is it about men and remotes?

Anthonia said...

I'm so loving your blog.

Thanks especially for the tailor tack video.