Make sure you read them all.
Some of your suggestions are incorporated in later exhibits as this story unfolds. However I really wanted to start off with a common by the book suggestion (included in many Indie patterns BTW too) so we can all have a look at how that goes.
We are testing here folks.
And also BTW I did steam press this last hem, although lightly. I am very careful about over pressing knits - something I have seen too many new sewers do over and over again and completely flatten the poor fabric permanently out of shape every time, so I work with the lots of steam, no direct pressure on the fabric, or my own hand instead.
Which now leads us to Exhibit B and my own take on it.
Last time we talked about the fact that straight stitches can break because they don't give when the fabric is pulled as knits do.
Despite this fact many well-respected sewing gurus and many Indie designers still advise on using a straight stitch for hemming any way.
Rather than do this when I already know that the stitches might pop and I would lose my mind, I did it with my own favourite adjustment and the one Great Big Secret I have to share after having sewn a million hems and that is - to use Wooly Nylon thread in the bobbin.
The trick here is to wind the bobbin by hand - speed on the machine will stretch the thread out and then it will bounce back once in the hem and pucker things up.
Hand winding a bobbin is not hard at all. I for one am quite happy with a few minutes of mindless activity whenever I can get it.
I also should add that wooly nylon thread can be hard to find in many colours in many places and it can be expensive.
I have one terrific source that solves this problem Cleaner's Supply These folks will send you out nice highly interesting catalogues with astoundingly low prices on stuff sewers use and also do a Canadian catalogue in Canadian dollars which is of high interest to those of us who live and sew at least part of the year on this side of the border.
When hand wound this is what your bobbin will look like:
Once the bobbin has been wound you can just go along and sew a straight stitch hem, no need for "finishing" the raw edge as of course knits don't fray. I also feel it useful to insert here that it is worthwhile to question the need to over finish raw edges in knits, particularly the fine ones, because I have found all the extra thread of say serging for example, can add to bulky see through on the right side.
The hem can be just straight stitched with a longer stitch length, I used a 3.0, although some folks prefer a slightly zig zag stitch - the famous wobble stitch, a width of only .5 or less.
Here is what it looks like, note I have not trimmed down to the stitching in this view although I did it a bit later:
Here is what this hem looks like on a garment:
|BTW the fold is in fact centre front! Just doesn't look that way from this angle|
- Easy to do, no special machine
- Little fabric distortion, some stretch
- Not as stretchy as other treatments
- Requires the hand winding of a specialty thread
- Specialty thread is an additional expense
- The raw edge on the wrong side must be tolerated or still finished
Grade : A
Now what do you think of this one?