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I am a mother, a grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge was published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon



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Sunday, July 24, 2016

Back in business and with Jalie

Those who read this from Nova Scotia won't need this explained.

Summer around here is visitors' time and that is what I have been doing. I won't go over the line-up but let's say I have enough time between guests to do one load of sheets in the washer and dryer. The slogan on the license plates is "Canada's Ocean Playground" and that is apparently true.

Being a conversationalist (that's a nice way of putting it) I love, love company and running my own version of visitor tours that are heavy on getting lost and ad libbing interesting stories about places I never thought we would be in.

However vacation season cuts into my blogging.

The next couple will be catch-up. My current visitor is one of my nieces and at 15 she is quite happy I think for a few moments of peace while I blog.

One thing I have been working on is some reliable version of linen type summer pants. Long loose pants are useful to have in the summer as a alternative to bug bites, that gummy wetsuit that is sunscreen and exposing one support stocking that you hope folks think is a wooden leg or something just as interesting.

A while ago I made Stylearc's Tessa pant which is the narrowest leg of their wide leg pants but I felt pretty swamped in them despite the promo that they were not too wide and not too slim.

As an experimenter I have then tried Jalie's Pull-on pants and shorts. I have to detour here a bit to say that I get all the Indie pattern emails, and although I find many nice patterns that way, I am getting a bit jaded with the elastic waist pants and plain T shirts billed as Iconic, Essential, and Ultimate, as I have said before.

I mean the wheel is already out there and has been for some time.

Nice to see a pull-on pair of pants called that, particularly if they have Jalie's superb drafting.

Back to topic.

These pants are wider in the leg but quite slim in the hips. The waist and angled side patch pockets are faced and of course you can have the facings on the inside or outside depending on how fancy you are feeling at that moment.

To give you a sense of how different these are from the Tessa's here is a Jalie pattern piece laid over the Tessa pants that I decided to recut:

Quite a difference isn't there?

I made this first pair as is, as I always do to see what alterations this particular pattern needs and was pretty pleased with them. Next version will have one inch added to the top waist because I am liking the feel of a secure waist these days and I am adding  1/2" to the facing so I can put a 1" elastic in the casing rather than the 5/8" I think the pattern calls for. The pants are certainly wearable as they are but having straight up and down hips I have a vague feeling when I wear them that suspenders would be a good idea.

I am also going to add a little sitting down room to accommodate what I sit down on. 

My current favourite method for doing that is this one which adds across the back side without increasing the fabric at the top of the back leg much or messing with the top of the crotch seam or side seam.

This Russian Pinterest graphic explains how it works:

Finally here are some on me shots in two photo shoots. The first ones were done in my backyard today by my husband, gives you a good idea of leg width and also how little bulk there is at the waist and hips. I will be reviewing the top soon too. Pardon the windy day hair, just look at the pants:

You can see through this thin T shirt where the waist line hits and why I am going to be adding a bit.

Yup there is a wrinkle but these are linen pants and I have already been running around in them
The wide leg shows in the back here at the top of my leg but given that they are wide linen pants I am OK with that,.
A little more fabric across my rear would improve the hang.

This is not the first photo shoot of these pants. Earlier in the week I spent the day with the kids at the place we swim and at the end of that day had my niece take some pictures while we ate ice cream.

My niece was careful and gave instructions, Front, Side Back and we didn't realize until I looked at the shots that the girls thought those orders applied to them too.

Not the best garment shots (particularly when I unflatteringly decided to show my stomach so you could see where the waist line sat) but good for a laugh and that, in my books, is everything:


Anne said...

So funny! The pictures with the girls are so cute.

Anonymous said...

These look perfect for going out for ice cream, and your partners in posing are adorable.

The pink "problem pants" illustration is also pretty funny.....

Enjoy your guests - we had an empty nest for the weekend and it was great, but long enough.


pgardner said...

I love your blog. Please don't stop.

Elle said...

Love the images: three straw-hatted ice cream-lickers twirling in unison.

freshcityfarm said...

I always have the best laugh when I read your posts!!!! The poses with the ice cream are so sweet and your commentary sent me into a hilarious laugh that I definitely needed!

Anonymous said...

I love your blog. You have a very dry and entertaining way with words. The photos at the end are brilliant!!

badmomgoodmom said...

You are a blogstar. The information density and humor are unbeatable.

LinB said...

I am a great fan of the Plaza Pant and Jacket from The Sewing Workshop. Have made the jacket several times, the pants too many times to count. It's GREAT in linen. Elastic waist in back, flat waist at front, back piece wraps around to a deep tuck down the length of the leg in front. Looks far more complicated to sew than it is to actually sew. Is not too loose at hips, nice and full straight leg, but not too full. They are a definite go-to in the heat and humidity of central North Carolina ... and in woolens and heavy cottons, in the cold and wind of winter. (Hahahaha! comparing a Canadian winter to a North Carolina winter!)

When they become too worn and threadbare to be seen in public, they are relegated to use as pajama bottoms. That's how comfortable they are.

Only way to add a pocket on the pants is do either a patch pocket (tends to drag them down ... or a hanging pocket, which works pretty well.

The jacket is easily made reversible, either by doing a double layer, or using a jacquard and flat-felling seams or binding the seam edges. I suppose you could make the trews reversible too. Have not yet cogitated on that problem. It would make a travel wardrobe much more versatile.

Jean Shaw said...

Really, the pics with the girls are the best.

Anonymous said...

i understand your Nova Scotia summer problem...I lived in Kelowna,BC
Same issue,different province
I think its time for me to try a Jalie pattern

Anonymous said...

Love your blog. I believe you may have to lengthen your crotch curve to reduce the wrinkling you have under the seat and upper back leg.
Just to try. I have the same thing happen to my pants. The different online fitting courses I have taken & a workshop said that the wrinkling can be reduced with a lengthened crotchet curve. How much length is the million dollar question.

/anne... said...

I can recommend a couple of elastic-waist pants, with of course some suggested changes.

Simplicity 1165, despite the awful cover photos, works very well in even larger sizes. You can easily sit in them, but they still are relatively fitted. Just remember to read the bit about how far they are below the waist, and adjust accordingly.

Vogue 9139 is an interesting pattern - but for the love of fabric, DON'T pay any attention to the suggested pants fabric! Nothing but the most drapey rayon or knit would work. They are substantial (cut a size smaller than recommended), but taper in nicely to a sensible flatteringly narrow hem. Lovely in hot weather, and look good with an A-line tunic. I've only seen one picture of the jacket - I may try it one day, but take it in through the centre line, as it really is a stupidly wide neck.

Both of my suggestions have pockets.