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I am a mother, a new grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My first book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge will be published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon


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Thursday, October 9, 2014

Vogue 9022

When I first saw this pattern, I thought great. Something other than the Kristin knit dress for me to make.

It's fine to have a go-to, but after a while you just wonder if you should also be going to somewhere else.

A few things you should know about this pattern before I get into what I did with it:

  • it is one of those odd ball patterns that says it is OK for both knits and wovens. Translated this means you probably won't need the back walking slit or the keyhole opening at the back if you are working in a knit. I just zipped up my centre back seam and that was fine, although I still liked a seam there so I could do a little shaping for my forward neck and my prominent behind.
  • the pockets are a cool idea. You will note that even in the picture there isn't any top stitching, in fact there is no real stitching at all. The side panels are long and you make a fold in them that creates the pocket and the sides of this pocket bag are captured in the side seams and the seams where the front panel is attached.
  • that's the good news. To make the side panel long enough for all this folding business you have an extra piece you stitch on, nothing more than an rectangle,and this seam is then hidden by the face of the pocket after you have done the fold up. This extra seam you sew to created this extra length doesn't make any sense to me, except for the probably reasonable desire to save on fabric in the layout. In a knit this seam makes kind a ridge that shows through and I will just tape this all together and cut the side panels and one long piece in the next knit version.
Now here are my pictures. One taken today by my long suffering friend at work in my natural habitat with my natural at work teaching expression on my face. Gives you an idea...

A close-up in case you can't believe your eyes, also lightened with my superior photo editing skills to help you see the detail, which it doesn't at all.

For that reason when I sent home to let the dogs out and have lunch I did something no one should ever do.

I took a selfie of my stomach.

Here it is with the note that the pockets are actually not crooked, my arm was up dealing with the camera:

This will give you an idea how the pockets are formed.

All in all I am really pleased with this dress, although I think the colour might be a bit dull. That's why I have the bright scarf with it and am considering also wearing it with a big turquoise "statement necklace" I bought in Florida where things like that look normal, as opposed to here in Nova Scotia where they do not.

The next time I make this pattern, which will be soon, I am going to work in a ponte.

I have to tell you about this fabric I used here, a so-called "scuba knit."

Let's not let the wool be pulled over our eyes folks - this is really heavy old polyester that we would have said "eeww" to before they renamed it and tried to talk us into believing it was anything but.

IMO this fabric should stay with wet suits or form fitting dresses that are more or less urban wetsuits and taken out of the hands of your average person making dresses like say me. I mean this stuff will outlast me, stand up in the corner by itself, but it sort of feels like it was manufactured from recycled tires.

My grandmother wore this stuff and had hot flashes in it at teas in church basements for the rest of her life.

I myself taught in it yesterday and noticed fog on my glasses.

Not to mention the stitching issues.

I have used this fabric before to make a straight skirt and had some trouble with skipped stitches that I eventually worked out.

This time, in a heavier version, no such luck. I tried every needle in my arsenal and in the end the only thing that did sew through it OK was my serger so this is a totally serged dress. Not ideal when the seams should be pressed open but best I could do.

So final verdict. Good pattern with potential, kind of knuckle head fabric.

On to the next thing.


Lynn Barnes said...

Even "yellow band" ballpoint needles? That used to be the only thing that worked on doubleknits. There was a knitting factory just down the road from our high school. All our chorus dresses were made from dk. Our teacher would order hundreds of yards from the outlet store attached to the mill -- you'd go in to their cutting counter, tell them why you were there, and they'd reel off the requisite number of yards and sell it to you. Patterns were the hard thing -- as soon as she announced the pattern for the year, 200 or more girls would hit the stores and snap up their size if it was still available. Thank goodness for Sarah Richardson, who'd order off for patterns from the little fabric store she ran in Pleasant Garden!

Mrs. Smith said...

I've had this on my todo list for awhile now! Love it!

I think the fabric is a gorgeous color!

Shirley Ann said...

I have to add this pattern to my collection. I love what you have done with it!

Anonymous said...

Thank you! Thank you for pointing out that this crap fabric that has been renamed to appeal to the masses and be "trendy" is still the same old crap fabric. Love your teaching face. I would have taken a class from a teacher with that face. ;)

garnet128 said...

I too love the color and think it looks great on you. I have to admit that the pattern really bored me and I passed over it really quickly. BUT, I like the REAL version you have made and think ponte knit would be great. This has more potential than what I first thought.

Dorothy DotDot said...

I thought this would be a perfect pattern for me as well. I really like what you did with it.

Patty said...

I also was ho-hum about this pattern until I saw your version. Looks exactly like the kind of dress I like to wear to work. And what can I say...I just want those pockets :-) Love the color!

Lucille said...

You do NOT have a prominent behind! I don't know where you ever got that idea, but lose it.

I too am not keen on the updated 'crimplene' fabrics. I put ponte in that group though. I love my natural fibres and have learned to embrace wrinkles and an
iron on every floor.

Sarah Liz said...

I took one look at scuba knit and ran the other way - it was, as you succinctly put it, like old rubber. Mind you, I never liked polyester knit way back then, either.

The dress though is lovely.

Ripple Dandelion said...

Made me laugh out loud with the stomach selfie and the observations about scuba knit! I really like your dress on you (that style would look terrible on me, so I'm not inspired to buy the pattern, but on you it's great). I have not experienced the wonders of scuba knit first-hand, and now I know not to bother. Thanks!

Anonymous said...

Lovely dress. Mary

Rachel said...

That fabric can't be as bad as crimplene -- remember that stuff, folks? Or can it?
However, plain as it is, the dress still looks great and would be very amenable to accessorizing.

Faye Lewis said...

Looks good on you!

BeccaA said...

This dress looks great on you. I love your description of the fabric--I have wondered if it would be anything I would like, but now I know the answer.

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

Great new dress and I like the color on you! Thanks for paving the way for us cause this is on my to sew list also!

Laceflower said...

Looks like a quick make if you don't have skipped stitches. I like the dress on you, it looks like a comfortable style to wear if not made in rubber!

Angela said...

Very attractive (and fun shoes)! What others have said is true: you take patterns that I have already decided to pass over and make them look great. Then I add them to my list.....

Anonymous said...

Oh dear, I just bought some scuba fabric from Emma One Sock lured by the beautiful prints available. It felt very heavy when it arrived and I started to wonder about wearing it. I think that it will have to be part of a color-blocked dress worn only in the dead of winter in Las Vegas where I live. Darn, I was fooled by the beautiful designs into ignoring the fabric content, similar to the lure of the pretty designs on quilting fabrics. When will I learn?
Kathy C.

Donna W said...

I think this dress looks great on you. For the skipped stitches I cut a narrow piece of wash away stabilizer (used for machine embroidery) and pin it in the seam allowance when you sew. Washes completely way when you wash the garment.

Jane M said...

I really like the dress design on you but so agree about this "new" scuba fabric trend. I noticed that our little dog's harness/coat was made from scuba fabric (and I bought a small piece to knock it off) but I wasn't inspired by that fact to try it myself.

Janine said...

Well the dress looks gorgeous. I had been wondering what scuba fabric was -I have to say the name was a little off putting since I have worn scuba suits but I thought it would be spongy just not straight out thick poly.