Final shots of Vogue 1236 with alterations

Here we are, only length added and the FBA as illustrated in previous post. I really wanted to keep the integrity of the design. And yes Nan I added a bit of length to sort of true the hem. But as I wasn't adding anything to a side dart there wasn't much happening to length and as there is so much ease in this dress I think that the extra you might need to go over the bust is sort of absorbed.

Holding my hair on a windy day, this view shows best where the extra got added

I think you can see the extra bust ease and the difference it makes to this dress, with what is really a very simple flat pattern alteration:

 

I really like this dress, and so glad I went back to it. Remember this is a pull-over your head dress and it has a full back right up to the neck as well as fairly high armholes, which I appreciate.

To illustrate how fine-tuned the upper bust fit is, despite having a nice summery scooped neck this is my cleavage shot - no show through of bras or any other stuff. Not that easy to achieve in an open necked loose summer dress, and a real assist to the wearability.

I am glad now I didn't give up on this pattern, didn't take much to fit it.

FBAing Vogue 1236

I actually think my process with this pattern is part of a larger discussion. That discussion would include my continuing evolution as a sewer who is working towards having her sewing reflect who she is really is and what works for her. It takes time.


OK this is where this is going.


In the old days if I made something and it was too tight-short-funny somewhere or weird I would toss the pattern, hang the garment up, make myself wear it a few times and then give myself permission to throw it out. Probably I would mark it all up to a "bad pattern", at least for me. My approach to handling this wadder of sorts was to go on the prowl for another pattern, a better pattern.


This was my standard operating procedure, and a category into which I would have put Vogue 1236 at least partially for the issues I listed before, although they were mainly the result of operator error.


However there were things I really liked about this pattern:

• The neckline fit and the shoulders were well-situated on my shoulders. This is a well drafted pattern and that's the areas where so many summer dresses don't quite work.
• I really liked the full all in one type facing, you can see it here is an in-process shot before the final pressing of the first version of this dress:

This is why sewing a designer pattern is so enjoyable.


But I needed to have done a FBA, I know I did, and so I went back and gave this one another try. We will know tomorrow when it is hemmed and the pictures are taken, but I think it worked.


The challenges of adding to the bust in this dress were not wanting to interfere at all with the design lines - not the slightly pegged shape of the sides and hemline, not the neckline with those nice pleats that stayed put without any flipping up (whatever the shot above may look like). And a side bust dart was out with the strong vertical lines of this dress.


So here is what I did:


1. I located my bust point by measuring down from the inside neck edge of the strap for length and out from the side seam  (note I couldn't measure from the centre front because of all that pleat action).


2. I drew a line from the side seam to the bust point and also down from the middle of the shoulder so I could get in the ease that wearing the first edition made me realize I needed for bust space even at the upper bust.


Here is what the pattern piece looked before I cut:

And after I spread it to get in that extra bust fabric. Super easy and I think it worked. You can decide for yourself tomorrow when I get the pictures of the finished dress done.

Inner thighs and dresses

First of all thank you to all who responded to the burning question of how to make undergarments to deal with inner thigh chaff under summer dresses.


Most informative.


I have found one pattern with potential, Jan Bones' shortie leggings  .Beth at Rusty Bobbin has made a pair and they look interesting. What I like about this pattern (which I have ordered) is it looks like there is some sort of crotch piece, so the obvious issues with a seam could be avoided. When I get the pattern and have made the up you will be the first to know.


I also wanted to talk more about Vogue 1236 and my failure to use my head and add a FBA when I was cutting out.  Here is the pattern piece and the issue:

As you can see, exactly what a person with their wits about them would notice and understand, is that it is as exactly as illustrated in the garment photo. The extra is deposited in the centre under the neckline and not over the boob area. I mean if you took those tucks out of the equation you would look at this side seam and say to yourself "I'm gonna need a FBA/dart there aren't I?"


I wish I had said this to myself.


Now the question is do I like this dress enough to go back and do a version 2 and see if I can customize it to fit?


I think I better. I am wearing version 1 as I write this and it is a great summer dress overall. So my job tonight will be to fool around with the pattern and hopefully cut out another of these.


Side note: Last night, one phase of my family dinner party ended up in my bedroom with me throwing all my summer sewing on the bed for niece, sister and sister's MIL to look at. I realized that nearly everything, apart from a few tops and pants, has been dresses. I love summer dresses. It is more or less all I sew and all I wear.


I wish I could say the same about my winter sewing. In winter I do a lot more separates and pants, although with all the heating we have there inside most buildings there is no need for pants once you have made it to where you want to go. So one of my ambitions is to make more winter dresses, of the highly wearable kind, if the pattern companies cooperate.


Now back to work. My weekend hasn't started yet.

Here is my finished version of Vogue 1236. 

Full view, over exposed in the wind

Headless view with dog and motorcycle. My photographer felt getting the bike in was more interesting than my face

I am happy with it and found it an interesting and easy sew. Of course because it is a narrow skirt it is cut short for function, as there is no walking slit, as well as for fashion. And because this is a pull over dress the neckline is open but then cut fairly fitted from the upper bust down so it doesn't look baggy.


I made a mistake because I made the assumption that the neck tucks would release enough fabric for my bust - in fact the extra in the tucks is focused around the neck only and this dress narrows pretty quickly again at the bust. I definitely needed a FBA, you can see by the stripes, and I let out the side seams at the underarms as much as I could, which helped comfort if not really adding where I needed it.


All in all though a fun around the house summer dress but I would make some real changes if I were ever going to make it again so I could wear it to work.


And I think it looks just fine without the belt.