Cutting explained

O. K. 

I totally get the why-would-I-play Twister references to my thoughts on cutting. So here is a little explanation that may be helpful, or not. 

Bear in mind that this is my perspective and there is never one way, or right way, to sew. If it feels weird in your own hands of course pay no attention. Just like I am no good at stretching clear elastic into a seam while I serge. Other people can do it well, I can't

If you cut right handed with the pattern piece to the right, or left handed to the left, the blade cut is going to be closer to the cutting line and less likely to lift. If you have ever taken your pattern off your fabric and been frustrated by the less than precise cutting you might want to try this.

If your fabric is slippery and have likewise nearly lost your mind as it slid around under the pattern piece then the keep-your-hand on the pattern piece and cut one hand length at a time advice is really helpful.

In order of priority I would always cut with the pattern to the right, however if it is a nice cooperative fabric like a denim that doesn't slide around much I would be less rigorous with cutting with my left hand on the pattern (however rough cutting the pattern pieces into chunks you can rotate around to get the best cut is IMO always worth it and something tailors often do).

If the fabric tends to slip, or move, a knit for instance, I would do both. I figure since we are down to the 1/8" differences when we sew some form of cutting accuracy is important.

For your edification, and amusement, here is a video of me simulating my advanced cutting technique on a picnic table with a napkin standing in for both fabric and pattern. 

Let me tell you if you can makes sense of this you can most certainly cut with your hands crossed over:

I will probably start talking about marking tonight after supper.

In the meantime I also want to share a picture.

My daughter's Golden Retriever has lymphoma and 1-3 months at best. Like all Goldens she is the ultimate family dog. Those three kids could stick their arms down her throat and she would just wag her tail. Such a sweet, sweet girl.

She really is my son-in-law's best friend. Now I have to tell you I adore my SIL, he is truly one of my best friends and I feel sad for them today.

Here is a picture taken of the two of them yesterday. Says it all at this stage of both their lives:

Handy sewing hint of the day #9

Layout and cutting.

You wouldn't think there would much to say about this subject. 

You would be wrong.

There is a reason that the cutters are the highest paid workers in a good sewing shop - in their hands the inventory can be used, or wasted.

First of all the most important thing you have to do is to pay meticulous attention to grainline. There are some areas in sewing where you can take shortcuts, but measuring both ends of the straight of grain line to the selvage edge is not negotiable. 

Grainline is everything.

The pay off will be garments that will hang properly without twisting (we have all had collars that seemed to lie right over one shoulder and stood out stupid on the other).

Fold your fabric in half carefully keeping the selvages even, if cutting double.

If matching patterns or stripes however cut single layer. Lay that pattern piece, that should be on the fold, on flat, not folded, fabric, cut it out, flip that piece, still pinned to the fabric, over, making the centre front a fold, match patterns or stripes and then complete the cutting out. (Tell me if this makes sense or not- I can see it my head can you see it in yours?).

Back to basics like pinning.

It has been my observation that many sewers either use too many pins (this can be a problem as each pin picks up a little bit of the fabric and consequently can produce a fabric piece larger than the pattern) or too few - which can make for wobbly cutting.

My advice is to put a pin at any pivot points, corners for example, and about a hand length apart. 

The hand length is important. 

When cutting lay your hand on the pattern piece to hold the edge still and cut from the bottom of  your hand length to the top, stop cutting, re-position your hand, and start cutting again. Flatten the pattern with your hand, cut that length, pause and cut again. Start, cut, stop. This method also works really well if you use weights to hold your pattern pieces down (like the infamous tuna fish cans or beach rocks) and a steady hand on the edge of the pattern keeps things still. 

For hard to cut and slippery fabrics I prefer to use weights actually, less chance of a "lift" with the cut and eliminates the issue of too many pins consuming fabric.

This might be slower than you are used to cutting but is far, far more accurate.

The other thing, and this makes a huge difference to an accurate cut,  is to keep the pattern piece to the right of your scissors if you are using right-handed scissors, and to the left if you cut with left-handed scissors. This might seem like a small detail but try it - you will see a difference.

Of course to cut this way, keeping the pattern piece on the same side as your cutting hand, can be awkward, so do what I do and "chunk cut" some pieces so you can rotate them as necessary to maintain this relationship of the pattern piece to your scissors.

Tomorrow you can be surprised to learn that I have strong opinions about marking.

Thanks for hanging in with me on this.