The best dress pattern

For a while all spring I have been looking for a new basic dress pattern, something simple I can make into 2,000 variations a la Carolyn.

I knew what I wanted. 

A front and a back and sleeveless with a neckline that wouldn't make me too hot. Something that was adaptable and basic but not a just a fabric envelope with holes for your head and arms to stick out of.

Something basic but with a bit of style.

Well try to find a pattern like that. Simple, comfortable and well-drafted.  

I looked and looked and finally ordered the KISS dress from Brensan Designs I admit I have a blouse pattern from this line but haven't made it up yet, and as a non-quilter, as a garment sewer, I wondered if these patterns were for me.

Here is the pattern envelope:

Now in my opinion this is one dynamite dress pattern, beautifully drafted, with these cool features:

• There is a pullover, more house dress, casual option that is made by placing the back seam on the fold and not sewing in the vertical back and front darts - only the bust darts are sewn. I made myself one of these directly out of the envelope in black and white cotton.
• There is also a more fitted version - to get this you use the same pattern, just sew in the front and back vertical darts and put a zipper in the back.
• There is a one piece back/armhole facing piece and a one piece front/armhole facing piece - so the whole top is sort of lined without any facings that can flip up or out.
• There are instructions to bag the facings/dress involving some pulling through the shoulder seam that is really slick. I can't explain it here because I am not sure I totally understand it but I followed the instructions on two dresses and presto it turned out. Very fast, neat and RTW.
• Most interesting, and you really need to pay attention to this, is the suggestion that since this dress has a scoop neck to sew the first 1" or so of the top centre back seam and then to put the zipper in below that! This means the back neckline is nice and smooth and faced and the invisible zipper is set a little way below in the seam. This totally dispenses with that horrible finishing the top of the zipper at the neckline hassle that has disappointed me in about 500 dresses.

Here is a picture of what that looks like in a photo that shows nothing and it totally non-illuminating but might make the point that this is one nifty way to put in a zipper in a dress with a neckline that goes on over your head:

That little bump you can't really make out about an inch below the neckline is the white zipper pull. Isn't this a totally cool idea?

So now the dresses. 

The first one is the vertical dartless pullover version I made with pockets to hold my dog leash, car key, and vegetable peeler as well as any other odd stuff I find on the floor.

Made this when I first got here and have worn it a lot. Notice just arrived from Nova Scotia pale legs.

Side view so you can see what the effect of not sewing those darts is. I might make this with only the back darts in for another casual dress, or make the darts slimmer.

And now for the very same pattern made up with the darts sewn front and back and the zipper in. 

Much more fitted and IMO an A1 dress to have. Note in both dresses the darts were perfect as is. In the second version I took in a little at centre front neckline to accommodate my scrawny neck:

 And this is me apparently holding up the house:

Back shot to show that if I had more fabric I would have matched the print:

So there you have it. A wonderful dress pattern.

Now I think I will go and have another look at this line.

Pattern thoughts

Life is settling down, more on that later in flypaper thoughts; right now I have groceries on the counter waiting to be put away. It's Canadian Thanksgiving this weekend.


So of course I am blogging about patterns.


Two bits of news.


Brenson patterns has an interesting concept called Shirt Club patterns. Basically it means all components in this line are interchangeable whenever possible. I have been meaning to investigate these patterns for a while now because that seems like a cool idea.


I will be starting soon. This month I won a pattern from Bren for leaving a comment on her blog. I am really looking forward to seeing how this pattern works and possibly exploring more. I will keep you posted.


Also on my radar is this new Jalie bra pattern.

I already make my own bras with Bra-Makers supply Classic Bra pattern and I won't be going back to store bought again. For the first time in my life I have the lift I need and am very comfortable.


However nearly every bra pattern out there has a seamed cup and there are just some garments, like knits, that won't work with. 


So this makes the new Jalie pattern intriguing to me. However as a D cup I really wondered if it would give any kind of decent support. To give insight into this good old Jalie has provided some real women shots of ladies with different cup sizes on the site. You go look and decide for yourself. 


I am definitely going to be running this bra pattern, and the Brenson shirt pattern, through the Babs Pattern Testing Laboratory in the very near future.


Jacket BTW is mostly done, just needs lining and buttonholes.


More on that later, the counter calls.