Two things to think about when making T shirts

I have decided, atypically, to make some practical clothes for the summer. I am still going on the bathing suit tear, expect more on that later, and on some maternity leggings for my DIL, but am doing a few T shirt side projects.

There are a few things this T shirt making has brought to mind.

1. Fabric really makes a difference. 

I think we tend to think that when a pattern is for knits that this means any knit with the right degree of stretch (and hopefully the pattern is specific about this, either with a 4" of fabric should stretch to here, or a % figure) can be used in any pattern.

When you think about this, assuming that a knit is a knit is a knit doesn't make sense. After all when we sew with woven fabrics we don't assume that all are suitable. Who would make the same pattern in say a melton, a corduroy, a poplin and a chiffon and expect them all to work equally well?

So why do we grab any knit for say a project that says for knits and expect it to work?

A T-shirt that looks great in a cotton lycra for instance, is this Jalie classic T ,I made for my daughter this week:

This is a close fitted top and needed the structure of the cotton lycra to hold the shape without being clingy. I thought this one really worked; a good example of cotton lycra appropriate to the pattern. By contrast I have tried to use cotton lycra is fuller shirts and been very disappointed - any degree of flare and it just sticks out.

The new Mimosa top from Jalie is really an expanded, literally, version of this shape, from fitted to boxy and it is interesting that the fabric requirements specify something that flows.

I followed this advice when I made my first one, you have also seen this shot before, and it is worth noting that the rayon I used had pretty much the same degree of stretch as the cotton lycra above, but because of fabric content, and this is important, it had a completely different hand and considerably more drape:

I was quite happy with this top too and was glad I had used such a flowy fabric considering the tie thing going on with the sleeves and the fact I wanted to wear it with a fitted skirt. This is such a light feeling top and so comfortable.

But this version brings me to thought #2.

2. Now the first time I make any pattern I always try to make it up as per specs because there seems to me to be no point in adjusting something without seeing first how the design works (some folks call this a muslin I call these garments clothes-to-wear-walking-the-dog.)

The first version of the Mimosa worked I thought but it reminded me that it's important to remember your bones.

I made the Mimosa 1.0 as per my bust measurement, which often works just fine with Jalies because they are not drafted for big shoulders. But in a light fabric with a scoop neckline I definitely felt it was too loose around my meatless shoulders. Even though the shoulder seams were sitting in the right place I wasn't filling out the upper chest well.

Which returned me to one of the first principles of fitting which is to use your upper bust for choosing a pattern size and add where you need it from there down.

The first Mimosa I made was a size W, my size for bust, waist and hips, but for my next version I traced off a smaller upper bust/neck, size U, and by mid armhole returned to the W.

Here is the result (pardon the wild fabric this was piece that came to me in a Fabricmart mystery box) and you can see what a difference this makes - only the neckline and upper chest is a different size than the version above but the whole shirt looks totally different. I have to say that one reason I like Jalies is that they have such a huge number of sizes in each pattern, with only an inch apart between each, so it is easy to make these minor tweaks in fit:

Really folks I am really happy with this shoulder fit now combined with the loose body shape to me this is a winner and a new TNT.

For those familiar with the pattern I have made one other construction change. The sleeve view here was for the sleeves to be rolled up. Since my fabric had both a right and a wrong side I made a deep hem instead and folded that up again to make the rolled up look. I then tacked it by machine a the underarm and with a few stitches at the fold on the upper arm.

I have some other patterns to try out for T shirts but this one is definitely going in the personal file.

Flypaper thought: another boss of the world edition

• Sometime ago I made a list of things I would make sure happen
• If I were the boss of the world
• It turns out that if you have an aptitude for world domination
• The ideas keep on coming
• So here we go
• If I were the boss of the world any actual world leader
• Would be forced to behave the way their mothers told them they should
• Or we replace them with the mothers
• If I were the boss of the world jars of face cream would be packaged
• Only in boxes that were the same size as the actual face cream
• Not in some Russian doll (to offence to actual Russian dolls) system
• Of a large cardboard box
• That contains a jar
• Under a lid that fills out half the inside of the box
• That screws onto a jar with the thickness sides you ever saw
• That when you lift off the plastic thing under the lid
• Reveals about half a teaspoon of something that does not contain enough to take the wrinkles off the face of a mouse
• If I were the boss of the world half a teaspoon of something that 96% of people you don't actually know, and who you can't access their names or addresses to actually check on this have endorsed
• Would never be disguised like that
• By 96% who are pretty sure that they probably had noticeably fewer wrinkles they are fairly sure
• Than they did two weeks ago if they had been checking at that time
• Or as a statistician would tell you
•  If two sisters looked at their faces and one asked the other one
• "Do you think this cream is working at all?
• And the other one said "Well maybe,"
• "What do you think?"
• That in the world of high level statistics and the science of probability that works out to exactly 96% a positive result
• Which come to think of it are pretty good odds for half a teaspoon
• If I were the boss of the world
• Dump it and forget about it crock pot meals actually tasted better than careful cooking
• And no food blogger or writer would be allowed to use the work riff
• As in "a riff on the traditional potato salad" you know the one that uses miso instead of mayo
• And no sewing blogger can use the word hack unless they mean
• Cut into tiny pieces and stomp on that pattern that used up all the good fabric and told you to do what no one human, not and particularly not 96%, could ever do even if they were sewing geniuses
• And hack involved scissors 
• If I were the boss of the world
• No one would be allowed to write in a cover letter that they were passionate about anything
• That they know full well they would only do if someone were going to pay them and make it worth their while
• Or say they are excited
• About things that involve writing a report
• While sitting in a cubicle
• If I were the boss of the world 
• I would install a feature on all cell phones that turned them off in parental hands any time a child was within 10 feet
• Except when pictures were being taken to send to grandparents
• If I were the boss of the world sewing would be listed as a profession
• And there would be pension plans for people who collect fabric
• And fabric stashes were tax deductible
• And spouses said things like
• We have that extra money to spend before year end
• And "do you think you can do something about that?"
• And time off to sew was included in corporate wellness plans
• Where it belongs
• If I were the boss of the world

Something to share: the summer challenge from my sewing guild

I am lucky enough to belong to a really interesting and active local sewing guild. At our last meeting before the summer the challenge project for the  period until we meet again in the fall was released.

Every year the summer challenges have been very interesting. I always look forward to seeing what other sewers have produced, but this one really spoke to me.

Unlike challenges in the past, which have largely been about technique or design, this one was focused on wardrobing, and that's a topic constantly on my mind.

It also occurred to me that some of you would be interested in the ideas expressed by this challenge so I have decided to share it here.

Credit to the marvellous Leeanne White for dreaming this one up!

CLOSET CREDITS - ATLANTIC SEWING GUILD SUMMER CHALLENGE 2018

Goal:

• To make three items between now and the Oct meeting that are a credit to your closet (or wardrobe).

• One of the three items can be hand-knitted

 Definitions of Credit (Merriam Webster)

• “something that adds to one’s reputation”

 It should be something that adds to the overall quality and functionality of your wardrobe.

• “recognition by name of a person’s contribution to a performance”

 It should make a significant contribution to the performance of your wardrobe.

• “recognition by a school that a student has fulfilled the requirements of a program”

 It should fulfil the following requirements:

1. Must fill a gap in your wardrobe. Just knowing that you have this item in your closet will give you joy.

2. Must be a hard-working addition to your wardrobe. You will reach for this item over and over again.

3. Must go with several of your existing garments and/or be suitable for many of your lifestyle requirements. They do not need to go with each other, although that would be a bonus.

➢ We have all made things that hang in our closet without hardly ever being worn, even though they

may fit, and we truly love them, but ---

▪ they don’t go with anything we own,

▪ they don’t fit our lifestyle

▪ we just don’t feel good wearing them.

This is usually a result of making something because we love the fabric and/or pattern or there was a sale we couldn’t pass up, but we haven’t really stopped to consider how the item is going to function as part of our wardrobe.

This challenge will, hopefully, result in items that DO NOT fit into the above categories.

And those are the only criteria your makes must meet. The items that will fulfil the requirements of a closet credit will be different for everyone of us.

Pinterest and Instagram are great sources of inspiration and ideas.

So, come to the October 2018 meeting ready to show us your Closet Credits and tell us little bit about how your makes met the requirements for your wardrobe.

PS – completing three Closet Credits for the October meeting is ambitious, so if you manage to get one or two done you have still succeeded and we will want to see and here about them!!

And most important of all – HAVE FUN!

Basic hand sewing stitches #5: the tailor tack

Really, really simple and easy way to transfer markings from a sewing pattern to your fabric.

Yes I know, I know that there are a gazillion tools and pens etc. to help you do it - but really sometimes classic is better.

Here's why I think so:

Basic hand sewing stitches #4: the swing tack

I'm back with my basic stitches. This one is one of my favourites because it is a real problem solver - the swing, or French, tack.

I use this all the time to attach specific units together without creating right side pulls and dimples.

As usual these videos look like they were produced on the kitchen table, because, well they are.


The swing tack:

Flypaper thought post Jalie week version

• Really enjoyed my week of Jalie reviews
• Now of course I am seeing other of the new patterns
• I am thinking more
• The Bobbie T shirt, the Julia underwear, and maybe the Rose top
• Woke up this morning ready to sew
• Like really sew
• Like really ready
• What's the opposite of losing your mojo?
• Anyone's Spanish that good?
• BTW got to learn Spanish
• Spending time near the Rio Grande next winter
• Because we have never been there
• So far I default to French with a Spanish accent
• Pretty sure that's not going to work
• Particularly since my French is highly incomplete
• Going to need a better system than that
• Going to make .20 versions of some of the patterns I reviewed too
• My head is exploding
• Getting no sense out of me for a while I can tell you
• Daisy's back is much better
• The acupuncture actually has really worked
• Pretty much every dollar spent on a spring in her step is worth it to me
• Her ear is flopped over the a and s on the keyboard
• Got to choose my words carefully
• Hardly do that when I talk
• Thinking ahead
• Going to be babysitting my daughter's 900 pound retriever this fall
• For three weeks
• Sort of like having Secretariat in the kitchen
• Daisy and the spouse might relocate to the rv
• Considering pop-up shop sewing classes
• Every now and then saying I am here
• Want to make ...?
• Would do it for the conversation
• Why do I think baby squirrels are adorable?
• But their mouse cousins not so?
• I have a binder for my cover hem
• Generic as my machine doesn't have one
• Supposed to tape it on somehow
• Putting this off
• Will cut into my sewing time
• But educational experiences are worth it
• I always say that after every disaster
• What do you think of swim shorts?
• Cutting up old bras for the bathing suit cups
• The ones in the store remind me of coffee filters
• Is that the look I want?
• Doing another Youtube tonight on hand sewing
• Got to get caught up
• Ran across my old school yearbooks
• Tracking down one of my daughter's she wanted
• In mine I looked at all the pictures of the cool girls
• Which did not include me
• I was the one not with the flip hairdo and the wing eyeliner
• Where are they now?
• Are they still mean?
• Or has life sorted that out?
• I was the one with the clothing inventions
• Hopefully now teenage "makers" feel cool
• I want to tell them
• Don't peak too early
• Imagine if your best years were that old?
• And your best moments were those that started under the dryer hood?
• My nerdiest friend is now a famous veterinary researcher
• OK it's in epilepsy in chickens
• But how many other people can say they are an expert in that?
• I made all my own clothes from age 12
• What was my mother thinking?
• Probably that I was out of her hair
• So
• This means I have been doing what I love since I was 12
• How many people can say that?

Genius ideas: Jalie's Elaine scrub top

There are a lot of nurses in my family - my mother, two of my sisters, my daughter, and now, in training, my nursing student niece.

The uniforms they have worn have changed over the generations- from my mother's white stockings and starched apron and hats, to my sisters' first white nursing dresses, and then to scrub tops and drawstring pants.

It is fair to say that none of our nurses have loved their uniforms (save maybe my mother who I am sure still misses her starched hat).

The reasons the nurses don't often like what they wear to work are these:

1. The almost one size fits all styling means that most scrubs off the rack don't fit anyone (as is the case with garments that are sold to fit everyone) very well. 

Ask yourself. 

When did you notice the nurse or dental hygienist in your life and thought "gee that outfit is a flattering fit"? If you have never made this assessment you can be pretty sure that the female in the scrub feels the same way.

2. The fabric and patterns are often nothing to write home about. Women who are fashion aware after hours would kind of like some quality in the garments they wear most often. I know one of my daughter's joys when she moved into a more administrative role was she didn't have to wear scrub tops any more.

All of which is a lead up to the release of Jalie's Spring release of a scrub top pattern. Here is the line drawing of the Elaine:

Now there are a couple of features that make this a particularly interesting pattern to me and to my nurses:

1. The seaming, specifically the princess seams in the front and back, make fitting, particularly for a larger bust, waist, or hip, very easy. I didn't do that in my version for my niece, but  I did add 2" in length which was much appreciated. We are all so tall.

2. The elastic in the middle of the back adds some flattering shape to what is often a fairly shapeless garment.

3. The V neck is modest but easy to wear and comfortable.

4. There are four front pockets - I hope you can see that there are smaller pockets inside the larger front pockets - a neat little detail that gives more places for more stuff but does not detract from the overall neat professional look of the top.

And of course making your own scrub top means you can choose your own fabric. 

When I asked my niece what she fabric she wanted she said  bright. Right now she is working with dementia patients and bright and cheerful colours are what her patients like best.

I had a lot of fun choosing fabrics. I settled on a combination of seersucker and a loutish print that seemed to say scrub top to this non nurse who has no idea what she is talking about.

Once again photographed by my niece's intrepid boyfriend here are some shots of her scrub top after work, modelled with the leggings I made her I notice, with emphasis on the details she particularly liked:

Hand in the inside the inside pocket shot

A shot hopefully showing how the two pockets are layered together. I also think this shows the vent at the side and the shaping achieved by the simple elastic insert in the back

Such a nice neckline

Isn't this a pretty back?

Finally my niece is very trim but I love this shot because it really shows how not boxy and frumpy the cut of this top is. Huge improvement on RTW scrubs

 My niece is pleased with this top and I was so happy to make it for her. 

Also I am secretly thrilled that I now have a great pattern in the reservoir that I can use  to make her scrub tops for her birthday and Christmas. I am also thinking that she would get a kick out of seasonal prints and this will give me an excuse to indulge my own taste in loud and crazy prints. 

Sarah has an infinite need for tops like these for work. Now I have a great pattern that fits, I think this is could to be the start of quite an interesting sewing partnership ...