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Sewing with less stress Front

Sewing with less stress Front
My newest sewing book

Sewing with less stress back cover

Sewing with less stress back cover
What my new book is about

Clothesmaking mavens

Clothesmaking mavens
Listen to me on the clothes making mavens podcasts

About me

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I am a mother, a grandmother, and a teacher. But whatever happens in my life, I keep sewing. I have worked as a political communicator and now as a teacher in my formal life. I have also written extensively on sewing. I have been a frequent contributor and contributing editor of Threads magazine and the Australian magazine Dressmaking with Stitches. My book Sew.. the garment-making book of knowledge was published in May 2018 and is available for pre-order from Amazon
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Monday, April 16, 2018

Oh my and home

Well we are home.

It was one epic trip to California and back over three months with considerable time in Texas and the wilds of the South West.

I have things to blog about and much catching up to do (will do a flypaper thoughts soon) but on the trip home I just needed to get some thinking done and look out the window so I didn't miss anything.

Also en route I taught two courses online - it was a busy term, I just posted the final marks.

Honestly I am dying to get back blogging now I am settled in in a reliable internet situation - I have so many things going on in my sewing life right now and have to get you caught up on some of my random projects.

One of those projects wis some more podcasting with the clothesmakingmavens.com The latest one I contributed to is up now, called Going with the Flow, and talks about sewing for your period, a subject on which I have a opinions, and of course sewing for menopause which is another and very large topic I have had time to consider.

These little podcast segments are fun to do, although I keep waiting for someone to say, Babs this is really too nutty.

If you would like to contribute Lori and Helena have asked you to consider these questions and send your responses in to them here which also will tell you how to submit:

The questions are:

1. What’s your name and where we can find you online (blog, instagram, etc.)? If you don’t have an online presence, that’s OK.
2. What’s the most embarrassing thing you sewed and wore out in public?
3. What is that special garment you sewed that you’re most proud of?
4. What’s on your cutting/sewing table right now, or a project you’re planning that you’re excited about?


Stay tuned folks, I am back in business.

Monday, March 26, 2018

Flypaper thoughts, well it's tonight edition


  • Last week in the Bay area then wind our way home
  • So beautiful here, so green, so almost excessively gorgeous
  • Makes me wonder if folks here know this 
  • I can think of a few places that could use some of this beauty 
  • Seems as if California has some to spare
  • Kids bought a house in Berkley
  • First house and they are so happy
  • Across the street is a house with a sewing machine in the front window
  • Looked across at that and it brought tears to my eyes
  • My son will be far away but not so far
  • When I go home I am leaving happy kids here and in Austin
  • And going back to my grandchildren and daughter
  • Miss Scarlett wrote me an email
  • "It's kind of boring around here without you"
  • Going to drive that rv steady in that direction
  • Well actually I don't drive
  • I knit
  • Well
  • I wish Daisy was that right now
  • Seems to have put her back out again
  • She's too tough and the idea she is in pain is too much for me
  • Off to the vet in the morning
  • She is always an episode away from surgery and it's a long way home
  • My baby girl
  • Patience and rest healed it last time
  • Not much else to do those thousands of miles
  • It has been a great trip
  • I found out that a landscape without anything in it is just as beautiful
  • Rocks in the desert express silence
  • I found out that Stonemountain and daughter is the best fabric store in the world
  • And 43 minutes on foot from the kids' new house
  • Do you know there is a converted garage in their back yard?
  • A granny flat
  • Wonder what that woman across the street sews
  • Think she is serious, serger thread on a spool holder feeding into that Janome
  • I found out my husband is talented
  • He has designed a fabric print pattern of windmills to have made up for ties for one son
  • Needs seven for a convention and I will sew them
  • I found out that I can sew cork handbags
  • Will post pictures soon
  • Not hard to sew 
  • But interesting to do something that didn't have armholes
  • Found out that the world is smaller than you think
  • And that this is a relief
  • Found out that one thing I have to do when I get home is teach little girls to sew
  • Miss Scarlett has friends
  • Found out that every window in Berkley has a bumper sticker in it
  • Found out that when you get older your kids can give you happy tears as much as they used to give you sad ones
  • Remember teenagers
  • Still catching up on my sleep
  • Found out that the nicest things some people say to you are not in words
  • Like my daughter-in-law letting me destroy her kitchen making kumquat chutney
  • And load her dishwasher
  • Found out that the more you travel the more you are comfortable outside of your zone
  • Either that or your zone gets bigger
  • And now includes more rocks
  • And cacti twice as tall as me
  • And campground neighbours who are underwater medics

Wednesday, March 21, 2018

Pre-fitting thoughts: a radical view

It was not my intention when I said we needed to talk about fit to go into a complete discussion of all the how-tos of fitting and pattern adjustment strategies.

There are lots of brilliant resources out there, and there are a few of my favourite techniques in my book, but before we get out the paper and scotch tape I think it is worth zooming out.

Zooming out to why we fit our patterns, and subsequently our clothes at all, what our expectations are, and what the general principles might be.

Here are my own thoughts on these issues. I need to hear what you think too about fit. I'm already looking forward to the discussion.

So here are a few core concepts with comments sort of mixed in too.

Idea #1: Fitting and adjusting a pattern, either before or after you try on a garment or a trial garment, and in reality probably a combination of the two, is primarily about comfort and then about appearance. 

It has to be big enough to move in and yet small enough to look smooth with lines that somehow flow over your own personal shape.

So to my mind any fitting project needs to flow with the construction lines of the garment and not fight against them.

Translated this means if you know your pattern needs some fitting work over the bust, choose a pattern with seam lines over that bust as in a princess seam, or, second choice a dart. Note seams are longer than darts and therefore have room for more fitting. 

If you have bust fitting to do avoid plain patterns like your regular old T shirt shape. 

They don't have the required construction spots you are going to need to stand on to do your work.

So look for seams where you need adjustments and you will reduce your fitting angst by about 90%.

Idea #2: Look for pattern shapes that mimic your body shape. If you have square shoulders look for set-in sleeves. If you have sloped shoulders look for raglan sleeves. Go with the flow not against the current. Another 90% reduction in fitter's meltdown potential. 

Forcing something to go in a direction it doesn't want to is always going to hurt and look it too.

A good example of this is a woman with sloped shoulders, a short neck, and a big bust struggling with fit  in a "classic" shirt style (classic often being designer speak for menswear garments put on women) and consequently opening herself up to a huge amount of work trying to bend those straight lines to her not straight body. 

So much easier if she begins from a starting place of a more feminine blouse with convertible collar and a princess seam bodice.

Idea #3: Fitting won't change your body, it will only help your clothes reflect your body. In fact a really good fit may not produce the look you want.

Examples are helpful here again.

I have a mini pot belly although I prefer to regard it as a badge of honour for three big babies and a C-section. When I make a straight skirt, an item that works over my straight hips, the front of that skirt can hang right down from the little cantilever of my stomach, creating "extra fabric" under it.

Now I can "fit" the skirt more closely with front darts and by taking in the front side seams but this will articulate that belly more closely. 

Understanding that fit reshapes clothes, and not me, leads to what I would call intelligent compromises in fit- in this case living with the loss of some body con shape in the fabric under the belly.

The same can also be said of a woman with say a 42" waist and slim legs who sees the extra fabric under her rear in tailored slacks as a "fitting" issue. 

Do we really want to fit it entirely to the point of egg cup shape or is there a compromise here too? 

Maybe leggings or slim pants with a tunic top or the selection of a wider style of pant leg that would blend in the discrepancy within its own flow?

Idea #4: Some pattern companies are better at naturally reflecting your shape than others. 

To my mind, and after working with many, many women on fit I have decided that rather than starting from a position that great fitting skills will eventually enable you to fit any pattern, you might be better to work your way through a few companies before you work your way through too many muslins.

Another example. 

Stylearc patterns fit me like a glove, with a little added in the waist. It has taken me a while to find them (had to wait about 30 years before those patterns went into production) but as long as I stick to Stylearc pants I am fine - to get the same end result in say a Vogue pattern would take me about five muslins.

However that said as much as I would like to love Stylearc tops they are just too generous in the shoulders for me. I am just too bony up top. 

Now I could use a smaller than my measurements Stylearc pattern to start, and make adjustments to add to the bust and waist so they might fit me, but I find it just so much easier to make tops in Jalies instead. The Jalie draft starts from a point much more like my own shoulder/upper chest shape and I have to make minimal fitting adjustments when I use those patterns.

Idea #5: Do one adjustment at a time. 

It is amazing that extent to which a change on one place can affect the behaviour of another part of a garment. Be wary about fooling around trying to fit too many places all at the same time - if it doesn't give you the result you want right away you will never know why or how to find your way back.

So those are my initial fitting thoughts.

Now what are yours?

Sunday, March 11, 2018

Tech glich, OK operator glich, and apologies to commentors

I have been having a few issues with my iPhone recently. A sticky screen owing to being dropped out of a pocket and onto the pavement one too many times.

As a result I sometimes tap it a bit too vigorously.

I did that this morning and by mistake deleted rather than published three fabulous comments. I felt terrible about that.

If those folks have the energy to re-comment, much appreciated. If not, my apologies. I did read your great comments but my readers didn't have the chance.

Quick reply to textile grandma. Of course you or any one can repost this post. I think it's an important subject and one that has generated, here at least, an terrific discussion.

Friday, March 9, 2018

Before we fit : how we see ourselves and the voices in our heads










I have been percolating this blog post for a long time. I know there are things I really want to say but I have been almost overcome by how many, and how intense, my thoughts are on this subject. To talk about body image I also have to talk about myself and mention my family and my mother and I am not sure how much I should do that.


Even now as I start to write this I can feel myself getting flushed and anxious.

That's what the voices in our heads have done to us.

Let's start with a sewing story and work on from there.

I have taught I don't even know how many sewing classes and measured I don't know how many women.

Not once, not once, not once did I ever move my measuring tape down to a woman's hips and not have her apologize for her hip measurement. Even one woman, I can even remember her name Joyce, who had a hip measurement of 35"

I even remember her hip measurement.

I can't count either the number of times a woman would pick a part of her body or appearance and use the word hate. I hate my legs, I hate my arms, I hate my nose, I hate my saddlebags.

Always part of your own God given body that has carried you through pain and love and loss and got you out of that door to the bus for work when you felt like shit, that has got you up out of that chair when you yourself were heartbroken because someone called your name, that hoisted some child onto your jiggly but comfortable lap, that lifted a million loads of laundry, rinse a million dishes, fitted tired feet into stiff shoes and walked you smiling into a million meetings where you had to listen at length to someone who was half as smart as you were making twice the money.

There is some part of this body that you hate.

So even when we sew the voices in our heads, those of ourselves and of our ancestors, come into the sewing room with us. 

We agonize for 30 years over pants that fit. Make a million muslins and take dozens of classes trying to fit what's wrong. We cover our whole bodies in tents like burkas to cover that one part that we hate, hiding the 90% for the sake of the 10%.

I thought this might even be worse among women of my generation. I know for certain that I grew up knowing that a normal woman was 5'5" 120 pounds and had a chin length blond bob (I still see those women now overpopulating the neighbourhoods where the doctors and lawyers live, jogging in small groups on weekday mornings). 

What I didn't know was what a person was to do if that was not them and never would be. 

My mother like many cared a lot about appearance. So did my dad. He had four daughters and was worried. On a teacher's salary we all were put in braces, as his investment in our marital futures. Our teeth to be inspected I suppose like horses as the summer fair.

My mother, bless her for all she did, tried to hide her feelings about our appearances but it came out. One of the truly terrible things every mother knows is that it is the offhand comment that children will remember, not the thousands of supportive things you say.

You know what I mean. 

Being told that dress was great on you because you look slim type comments. When I was younger I was too thin (apparently a neighbour once described me as cadaverous when I was a teenager my mother reported) and as I have got older it is that I am too heavy.

For me primarily it was my hair, and still is.

I have an autoimmune thyroid disease that on medication causes me no problems at all. I had half of my thyroid removed too at one point and the meds are not negotiable. Unfortunately one of the side effects in some people is hair loss and there is not a damn thing I can do about it.

Personally I quite like my hair. I know it does its best. There are worse things and I am grateful for my thin old hair sticking out randomly out of my head every morning ready to do another day.

What I don't like is having to deal with how other people view it.

The hairdresser who once asked me to get out of the chair because there was nothing he could do with hair like mine. The other helpful stylists who suggest vitamins from Costco. The fact that my mother's record for starting to discuss my hair once she sees me again is 26 seconds (my daughter once timed it). The fact that when I won the medal for the highest standing in my faculty in my university and my picture was in the newspaper, unfortunately with my hair messed up when I put on my academic gown, the first thing my mother said was with that hair people will think anyone who looks that dumb must be smart.

I think you get the picture. No need for me to keep get going. And I know you have your own stories, and I want to hear them, I think we all do.

However I was reminded of this yesterday morning.

I knew I was going into my publisher to shoot videos. When I heard there would be overhead cameras the first thing I thought about was my hair. I decided I wouldn't bring my mother's attention to the video.

I thought I was doing just fine but you know what I did?

Without my glasses on picked up my bottle of nude nail polish, that is more or less the same shape as my foundation, and I put nail polish on my face. It was only when I put my glasses on that I realized what I had done.

Oh yes I was real calm. Kept thinking about those cameras.

So it seems to me that before we even talk about fitting we need to own our bodies.

A huge revelation, and a wonderful discovery, particularly today one day after international women's day, has been the indie pattern companies.

As you all know I have decided to explore indie patterns this year.

I need to say though that I am focusing a bit on what I would call second generation indies. The first would be any company like Stylearc or the independent designers you see for sale on sites like Patternreview.

The second generation are the home-based business type .pdf patterns who market themselves mainly through Facebook and Etsy and their Shopify websites.

These patterns, Patterns for Pirates, Rad Patterns, Stitch upon a time, Greenstyle Creations, Five before Four, etc. (this is a partial list only, look for reviews over the year) and others of this generation have a few things in common:

  • they come in a large range of sizes - XXS-XXL
  • they have many options obviously intended for adaption to different body types, a bomber jacket in a short and tunic version for example
  • the garment/sample pictures are collected from pattern testers, chosen as far as I can make out, by the range they represent - these are clothes on real people
Now after decades of seeing size zero models in the pattern books I was at first really struck by seeing real bodies. And not just real bodies but real bodies and happy faces. These were sewers not hiding themselves, not dressing to compensate for their flaws, as we were trained to do.

Hating your body or part of it on these women seemed to be over shadowed by the look of satisfaction, the "I made it myself" smiles that I think distinguishes sewers from retail buyers.

I invite you to check out some of these pattern companies and just give yourself time to look at the models. I want you to consider any reactions that these women have figure flaws.

I want you to look at a picture like those posted at the top of this post. I want to ask yourself when did you ever see these women in the pattern catalogue. Ask yourself if these women look like you or someone you know. Maybe ask yourself should this woman be in a tent if she doesn't want to, or in a house, or off the beach, or should she be proud of something she made, so proud she is sharing it, and that she is smiling at that person behind that camera who is proud of her too.

So look at these pictures and tell me what you think, what you feel, and share your stories.

Then we can I think we can talk about fit.






Thursday, March 8, 2018

Video on trimming, clipping, grading and notching and one funny shirt story

Well folks today I was in at C&T, who are publishing my book, and was part of a Facebook live session on reducing bulk in sewing.

Here's the link.

It is aimed a new sewers and I hope it was useful to those who tuned in.

Those with shape eyes will notice the first thing I did. I am in my bare feet, very professional. Being tall I took my shoes off so it was easier for the person holding the phone - I am helpful that way.

And am I the only one who sews with her shoes off?

Hands up.

When I left the office my phone rang and it was my youngest son. He started off the conversation like this,

"Mom I have sort of bad news and I don't want you get upset."

Well any mother I knows heart stops right then.

He continued.

"Remember that wind energy conference I went to? "

"Well I wore that electrical circuit shirt you made me and the client went nuts."

"Give me that order and I will give you the shirt off my back I said."

"Well mom the p.o. just came in."

"Is it hard for you to make another shirt? I loved that shirt."



Sure kiddo.

Just let me kick off these shoes.

Tuesday, March 6, 2018

Quick pattern view : Trendy tunic from Love Notions

We have been on the road for a bit now, seriously amazing camping in the desert between Texas and California. However along with the cactus and mountains we lost a bit of connectivity so I have been only sporadically online.

I am brewing more on our style series but felt a review of this pattern was long overdue so I should do that first.

Continuing in my investigation of indie patterns I made my own version of Love Notions' Trendy Tunic.

There are about 8 million longish tunic patterns out there so this one attracted me because it was a little different. Here are the line drawings:







I liked the look of the pockets, I have said before that it reminded me of a clothespin bag (also useful). Since I am driving around in an RV not a fabric store (not that I'm not trying) I put this experimental version together out of bits and pieces.



Styled with hair that needed cutting and full living in the bush make-up which would be none.

It was clear that the pockets were going to require a fabric with body so I used a piece of ottoman I have stashed away in the space in the bunk area above the cab of the rv. It was part of the collection of bits and pieces I have not fully disclosed to the man who thinks we are travelling light.

For the sleeves I used some patterned jersey that was not enough to make anything but these two sleeves. 

And finally for reasons discussed in our conversation on colour, I squeezed the colour and cuffs out of some cotton lycra I brought with me under some impression that I would be making underwear in my spare time. As opposed to walking around looking at rocks and cacti which is actually pretty interesting.

I realize that the neck and cuffs of this top look a bit like a little boys jammies but then again I have always had a soft spot for little boys in their jammies.

I really wasn't sure if an A-line tunic would suit me, don't wear them a lot. However it turns out that the comfort and utility of this top really appeal to me. The large deep pockets are great for picking things up off the floor that you will put away later, for dog walks, and for sewing supplies like seam rippers that go off on their own if they are not in a pocket.

I also think this tunic could be easily lengthened into quite a nice practical dress. You could also add a cowl neckline if you felt one might be nice.

So when I get home I am pretty sure I will be making a few more of these for real life wear.

Now what do you think?