Saturday, March 24, 2012

Conceptualizing the Chanel jacket

Half way through now I think I am feeling this jacket.


I like the silk charmeuse lining on my skin - I also realize that some leftover Adele top rayon knit would make a comfortable shell to wear with it - Zebra to zebra.


I like the lack of interfacing and serious stuff - let's face it a little hand sewing is easier on the brain than tailoring.


However I am thinking about why I am doing what I am doing.


The whole principle is to laminate the lining to the outer fabric and just turn in the garment edges and cover them with trim. That's really all this project is about - what you aren't doing as much as what you are doing.


It's sort of minimalist sewing if you squint at it.


The fussy part is the leaving enough unlaminated around the seamlines so you can actually sew the thing together and then of course cover this up with lining. Negotiating that requires stopping your quilting lines short, tying off the threads and then handsewing the free lining edges down at the seams.


I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to just quilt the yardage, which would be the easiest way to get all the quilting lines on grain, cut out the units from the then "double sided" fabric.


Stitch her up and then just hand sew cover the seams with bias lining strips, which you could run through the bias tape maker as a time saver.


Of course you would have to do something with the hems and edges, I will ponder this while I walk the dog.


What do you think?


Would this be more efficient? Take more time?


Or not?

6 comments:

badmomgoodmom said...

That sounds like a fine idea. Why not give it a try?

I've read of others covering the inside seam edges with bias strips of lining fabric, slipstitched in place on both edges.

I haven't read of quilting all the way to the garment edges but why not? You can then cover the edges w/ bias strips of the outside fabric, wrapped over the edge. Brush the bias edge on the outside to fluff it up. Finish with some trim on the outside to give it more oomph.

Why not?

annie said...

I think Coco would love it! She was not a "committed" seamstress.

Cherry said...

It's getting pretty close to the Burberry quilted jacket - quilted fabric ( iconic Burberry check inside), bound seams and edges. Just a thought!

BetsyV said...

It's plausible but I think it might be difficult to execute, quilting the entire yardage before cutting it out. Besides, don't you have 3 layers? outer, middle (organza), and inner (lining)?

I think I remember Caroyln (Diaryofasewingfanatic) doing just this, but cutting generous rectangles for each pattern piece, quilting the layers, then cutting the pattern pieces out.

Bunny said...

My last one I did exactly as Betsy described. I cut the outer fabric about a 1/4 inch larger than the pattern piece. Quilting takes up fabric and I wanted the extra for an accurate recut. That piece was then placed on grain with the lining which was a block. Then I quilted it. I pulled my threads to the outside and square knotted them and then ran them to the inside with a needle. I found that much easier than trying to make those knots on the inside and the boucle hid the knots totally.

Thanks for sharing this journey. Its always good to see how others approach the same challenge.

Myrna said...

When I made my channel-ish jacket, that's exactly what I did. Stitched the fabric first with the lining as the lower layer, sewed together, and used custom made bias on the edges.

http://chaneljacket.blogspot.ca/search/label/Myrna